Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Bay Colour Scheme

75coupe

By 75coupe,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

its come time to coat my new setup, and I havnt settled on a colour scheme as yet, there are still some minor heatshields and other stuff but I want to send all the parts to get coated...

let me know what you think colour wise....

Im coating strut brace, intake plenum, cam covers, cam belt cover and intake piping

post-26316-0-34762500-1307625619_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-00601700-1307625634_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-06593000-1307625642_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-65958600-1307625658_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-64442100-1307625666_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-45800500-1307625682_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367280-engine-bay-colour-scheme/
Share on other sites
75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh and its a silver r33 with black vented bonnet, reb brake calipers, black rims lots of CF outside & CF cooling panel. std series 2 body kit.

I choose red and blue to go with the speedflow fittings, but Im open to suggestions.

DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

Red, do the fuel rail as well and the stut top brace bar grey or black. Then it will match the arc box.

Also don't forget the little things lime the radiator brackets etc

Edit: do the plenum and IC piping grey as well (all gloss though)

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

its come time to coat my new setup, and I havnt settled on a colour scheme as yet, there are still some minor heatshields and other stuff but I want to send all the parts to get coated...

let me know what you think colour wise....

Im coating strut brace, intake plenum, cam covers, cam belt cover and intake piping

post-26316-0-64442100-1307625666_thumb.jpg

^^ This or just replace the red cam cover with Millennium Jade.

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Red, do the fuel rail as well

Im not sure I can powder coat the fuel rail, as it needs to fit the injectors and Im worried the coat may be too thick and make fitting harder...

I suppose I can get it re-anodised in red but that sounds expenisve....

Millenium jade, hmmm I wanted to powder coat everything though... a bit longer lasting than just painting...

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted

Im not sure I can powder coat the fuel rail, as it needs to fit the injectors and Im worried the coat may be too thick and make fitting harder...

I suppose I can get it re-anodised in red but that sounds expenisve....

Millenium jade, hmmm I wanted to powder coat everything though... a bit longer lasting than just painting...

you can buy fuel rails in red made out of billet.? or machine out the powercoat, or use the anodizing spary paint from VHT heat/fuel proof

stick the the same colour as your other bits, red calipers, then red for engine parts, ?

millinuim jade is overrated unless the rest of the engine is for real ? plus it matches nothing

fewer colours is better, two or so IMO

DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

Yep metalcast ftw, have alook in my build thread dude, every thing that is red is metalcast.

If you can't find it let me know and I'll send you some pics.

You have a silver base coat than a candy on top. My covers went an orange tinge after a couple of years but the rail held up well.

Having said that Craved is currently powdercoating all my rail and covers cause it's tougher.

I've also done the runners and plazmaman and if they mask up the bits where the inj goes in It will be fine.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

i've done top feed rails before, just plug them for blasting and coating and it wont get inside the machined fittings.

perhaps ask 34geeteetee for some better pics of his rail.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=342957

red metalcast over blue would go purple lol

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

post-26316-0-00601700-1307625634_thumb.jpg

I like this one, except I would probably leave the strut brace bits blue, and I would get rid of those horrible red radiator houses for black.

That way you would have a red black theme going with a few little bits in blue..

If it was my car however all the red/blue would be gone ,you can get black fittings, and i would coat everything else in satin or gloss black this would match the rest of your car well too :)

edit* actually even if you keep all the red/blue fitting as it is and did just the covers in satin black...Can u photoshop one of them for me, leave everything the way it is but with black covers..even if you just did the cam covers with crinkle coat black and left everything else just the way it is just polish up the metal stuff i think it would look great and only cost 20$ for a can of paint

yep thats my vote crinkle coat covers and leave the rest :D

DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

Show off with ya fancy colours :) now your just gonna confuse him!

Do you reckon the metalcast would still purple up even with the base coat? not trying to push it cause you know I've been converted just curious.

Edit: BTW Arthur I "think" Chris can do the crinkle look powdercoating anyway

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

post-26316-0-65958600-1307625658_thumb.jpg

If he doesnt like the black idea

Id like to change my vote to this one though as it has the best balnace of colour, not sure why I didnt spot it before.. :unsure:

But yeah, ignore my previous posts (blabberings) this scheme with either the metalcast blue or black covers :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...