Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its come time to coat my new setup, and I havnt settled on a colour scheme as yet, there are still some minor heatshields and other stuff but I want to send all the parts to get coated...

let me know what you think colour wise....

Im coating strut brace, intake plenum, cam covers, cam belt cover and intake piping

post-26316-0-34762500-1307625619_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-00601700-1307625634_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-06593000-1307625642_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-65958600-1307625658_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-64442100-1307625666_thumb.jpg

post-26316-0-45800500-1307625682_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367280-engine-bay-colour-scheme/
Share on other sites

oh and its a silver r33 with black vented bonnet, reb brake calipers, black rims lots of CF outside & CF cooling panel. std series 2 body kit.

I choose red and blue to go with the speedflow fittings, but Im open to suggestions.

Red, do the fuel rail as well and the stut top brace bar grey or black. Then it will match the arc box.

Also don't forget the little things lime the radiator brackets etc

Edit: do the plenum and IC piping grey as well (all gloss though)

its come time to coat my new setup, and I havnt settled on a colour scheme as yet, there are still some minor heatshields and other stuff but I want to send all the parts to get coated...

let me know what you think colour wise....

Im coating strut brace, intake plenum, cam covers, cam belt cover and intake piping

post-26316-0-64442100-1307625666_thumb.jpg

^^ This or just replace the red cam cover with Millennium Jade.

Red, do the fuel rail as well

Im not sure I can powder coat the fuel rail, as it needs to fit the injectors and Im worried the coat may be too thick and make fitting harder...

I suppose I can get it re-anodised in red but that sounds expenisve....

Millenium jade, hmmm I wanted to powder coat everything though... a bit longer lasting than just painting...

Im not sure I can powder coat the fuel rail, as it needs to fit the injectors and Im worried the coat may be too thick and make fitting harder...

I suppose I can get it re-anodised in red but that sounds expenisve....

Millenium jade, hmmm I wanted to powder coat everything though... a bit longer lasting than just painting...

you can buy fuel rails in red made out of billet.? or machine out the powercoat, or use the anodizing spary paint from VHT heat/fuel proof

stick the the same colour as your other bits, red calipers, then red for engine parts, ?

millinuim jade is overrated unless the rest of the engine is for real ? plus it matches nothing

fewer colours is better, two or so IMO

Yep metalcast ftw, have alook in my build thread dude, every thing that is red is metalcast.

If you can't find it let me know and I'll send you some pics.

You have a silver base coat than a candy on top. My covers went an orange tinge after a couple of years but the rail held up well.

Having said that Craved is currently powdercoating all my rail and covers cause it's tougher.

I've also done the runners and plazmaman and if they mask up the bits where the inj goes in It will be fine.

i've done top feed rails before, just plug them for blasting and coating and it wont get inside the machined fittings.

perhaps ask 34geeteetee for some better pics of his rail.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=342957

red metalcast over blue would go purple lol

post-26316-0-00601700-1307625634_thumb.jpg

I like this one, except I would probably leave the strut brace bits blue, and I would get rid of those horrible red radiator houses for black.

That way you would have a red black theme going with a few little bits in blue..

If it was my car however all the red/blue would be gone ,you can get black fittings, and i would coat everything else in satin or gloss black this would match the rest of your car well too :)

edit* actually even if you keep all the red/blue fitting as it is and did just the covers in satin black...Can u photoshop one of them for me, leave everything the way it is but with black covers..even if you just did the cam covers with crinkle coat black and left everything else just the way it is just polish up the metal stuff i think it would look great and only cost 20$ for a can of paint

yep thats my vote crinkle coat covers and leave the rest :D

Show off with ya fancy colours :) now your just gonna confuse him!

Do you reckon the metalcast would still purple up even with the base coat? not trying to push it cause you know I've been converted just curious.

Edit: BTW Arthur I "think" Chris can do the crinkle look powdercoating anyway

post-26316-0-65958600-1307625658_thumb.jpg

If he doesnt like the black idea

Id like to change my vote to this one though as it has the best balnace of colour, not sure why I didnt spot it before.. :unsure:

But yeah, ignore my previous posts (blabberings) this scheme with either the metalcast blue or black covers :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...