Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Over the past couple of days my standard alarm has been playing up and going off randomly. It's completely random, sometimes within short periods, sometimes it goes all day without an issue. Very weird...

I've done some research on here and found that I have the factory optioned alarm with the sensor on the dash. Apparently this can be set off by wind etc, so I've made sure all the windows are up, sunroofs closed, etc.

Long term, I think I'm better off replacing it. However I'm looking for a short term solution to tide me over for a couple of weeks, as I'll be too busy to get it fixed/installed.

Has anyone had an issue like this fixed without replacing the alarm? I haven't changed anything, so I'm not sure what's going on...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367515-stock-alarm-playing-up/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If yours is the same as mine, you've got 2 sensors - pasenger side on dash & driver's side top of B pillar. I occasionally put black electical tape over them so I can leave the windows down a little with the alm on. See if that stops the random activation. If it doesn't, consider changing your battery as a nearly stuffed battery can cause some weird, gremlin like, symptons.

If all else fails, hit you mate up for a cheap alarm :happy: .

Thanks Leon. Have you got a photo of what you've got on the drives side top B pillar? I don't have anything there, but I do have something in the middle of the windscreen that looks kind of like a speaker.

I think there was something at the top of the A pillar when I bought the car, but I removed it because I thought it was a microphone. Hopefully it wasn't that, although surely I would have had issues before now?

I'll try some tape over the passenger side sensor and maybe over the thing on the windscreen too. Sounds like a good DIY temporary solution! :thumbsup:

Thanks Leon. Have you got a photo of what you've got on the drives side top B pillar? I don't have anything there, but I do have something in the middle of the windscreen that looks kind of like a speaker.

The ultrta sonic sensors do look a bit like a really small tweeter lol. These the same as yours?

post-76144-0-43037300-1307945126_thumb.jpg post-76144-0-38471000-1307945143_thumb.jpg

The one on the dash is the same, but I don't have the one on the B pillar.

Weird.

I've spoken to a couple of people and we were all under the impression that the original alarm had to be removed at compliance and replaced with an Australian standard immobiliser at a minimum, if not alarm too. Should I check with Northshore and see what they might have done?

The ultrta sonic sensors do look a bit like a really small tweeter lol. These the same as yours?

post-76144-0-43037300-1307945126_thumb.jpg post-76144-0-38471000-1307945143_thumb.jpg

I have the exact same thing in mine too. Mine has been bypassed and I have a 3 point immobiliser that also operates the central locking.:thumbsup:

I'd bone that alarm and start again with a new installation, once they start having problems, they're nothing but a pain in the arse.

Get in touch with Chris Rogers; I'll bet he suggest the same thing.

So a thief could climb carefully into the back without triggering the front sensor LOL. Doubt it !

It wouldn't hurt to ask Northshore to see what was/wasn't done. I don't know what should be changed at compliance, although I have heard that an Aus standard immobiliser is supposed to be fitted.

I'm confident, however, that nothing was done to my car (not Northshore complied BTW). Having said that, everything works in that respect so I'm not worried.

The one on the dash is the same, but I don't have the one on the B pillar.

Weird.

I've spoken to a couple of people and we were all under the impression that the original alarm had to be removed at compliance and replaced with an Australian standard immobiliser at a minimum, if not alarm too. Should I check with Northshore and see what they might have done?

depends on the RAW involved. most of the cars I have done from 2007-> now, I have pulled anything aftermarket OUT as it gave grief eventually due to scotch locks working loose. by rights anything imported after Jul 2001 was SUPPOSED to have an oz stds immobiliser fitted or have an exemption in the evidence submitted at the time. due to the amount of 'cheap' copmpliance work that was done a lot of the cars missed this point. if its not there and you have your car insured with a specialist insurer it may pay to read teh fine print. if you still have the dealer fitted one there - do our self a favor and get it pulled out before it strands you in the middle of no where.

@leon,

I'm not a charity , working on jap cars is how I make my living, - if you have something to say - say it, or forever hold your peace :)

Thanks for the info Chris. Sounds like we're talking about two different things here. If they're just supposed to have an OZ standard immobiliser fitted, that probably has no impact on the alarm. To the best of my knowledge I still have the dealer option alarm fitted.

Long term I'd done enough research to tell me I needed to replace it. I like the look of the Viper's, as I'm a bit of a gadget freak, but looking into them more they only do single point immobilisation, so no good. So based on my research I'll go with the Mongoose M80 I think.

But short term, I'm going to be in Melbourne for almost a week so I just want the car to be secure while I'm away. Then when I get back I can organise a replacement. Short of locking it and disconnecting the battery it doesn't seem like there's a lot I can do. Lucky for me there'll be other cars in the driveway, so it won't be going anywhere, its just a matter of making sure the interior is fine.

might be a bit out of place but here is my idea.

Short term.....

im not an alarm tech, how ever I am an electronics technician. Generally most alarm box's will come with a sensitivity adjuster, even though all electronics are made the same they may behave quite differently thus the need for adjusment.

for some systems the sensitivity, will be jumper inside the sensor for others it maybe an adjustment screw on the alarm box if you were game you could locate this yourself.

longterm....

Gut it and get another system fitted. (preferrably by pro's, most joints run there own system and little tricks about fitment and placing)

Id recomend getting a very basic Passive alarm that works in with your central locking in other words it activates only once your engine is off and your doors have been locked. Dont get anything fancy with Blinky lights, proximity sensors, two way communications, remote start etc...nothing worse the realising the car next to yours has run your battery flat because it has parked to close. In most cases if someone really wants to take your car its a matter of wires to cut, parts freeze, body's to taser etc etc etc... you get the point.

No alarm is perfect by any means but the less someone can identify what system you have or who installed it the better.

Good luck bro.

Not out of place Clint, good suggestion. Leon suggested electrical tape over the sensor to reduce the sensitivity, but does the M35 dealer option system have a sensitivity switch? Anyone know where?

Not game tonight, too dark, will play tomorrow, but thanks for the suggestion.

Long term, I'd rather not get tasered :P But yes, I get your point and I've already started looking into getting the option system gutted and replaced with an Aus standard system.

I've already started looking into getting the option system gutted and replaced with an Aus standard system.

I got mine fitted at GT Autosound, really clean job. Only feature I lost was my mirrors cant/wont point at my rear wheels when I reverse any more, and the mirrors dont automatically tuck in (And yes, Im aware of the switches on the dash that are meant to control all that :P). They MAY be able to fix that if I asked, but I never had time to look into it and it doesnt really bother me.

@leon,

I'm not a charity , working on jap cars is how I make my living, - if you have something to say - say it, or forever hold your peace :)

Hey Chris, my point was that I have heard your views (on the alarms etc that come installed on our cars) a few times before & I knew you would be of the opinion to rip it out. To be honest, if mine started playing up & I couldn't easily fix it, I'd replace it as well. But I would have a go first - that's just me :happy:.

What alarm did you get fitted Dunc?

I'd heard them recommended before, but I'll go through Brad (ducati02) for the install. He did a fantastic job on the stereo and is a real stickler for quality. Some would say obsessive with some of the finishing details on the stereo.

What alarm did you get fitted Dunc?

I'd heard them recommended before, but I'll go through Brad (ducati02) for the install. He did a fantastic job on the stereo and is a real stickler for quality. Some would say obsessive with some of the finishing details on the stereo.

See my PM, I prefer not to bandy it about too much :thumbsup:

If Brad manages to keep your reversing wing mirrors I may have to pay him a visit too then :P

My wing mirror button looks half arsed anyway, looks pretty agricultural, just a push button with a cheap sticker on it.

Thats what they all look like mate! Possibly the weirdest thing on the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...