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TRex

you might also want to look at the ATS carbon twin plate http://www.nengun.com/ats/carbon-clutch

that is what i run in mine. as for gearbox, I'd go a S3 R33 GTR box as suggested.

Funny you should mention the ATS/Carbonetic clutch, that's THE clutch i ran in my WRX. It was BEYOND acceptably noisy you had your foot on the clutch. When i put it in i noticed it didn't come supplied with the release bearing so i went to a bearing supplier and got what he thought would be the correct bearing. I'm in two minds as to why it was so noisy, whether it was the wrong bearing or just the clutch. My brother has a twin plate metal OS Giken in his WRX and it makes the same noise only about 30% as audible.

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yes bellhousing is the same as late model R32 with pull type clutch.

as far as noise goes most twin plates are noisy with foot on the clutch pedal. it's the plates rattling in the carrier. usually the ATS clutches are a bit quieter as they are carbon fibre plates. I really like the ATS carbon twin plates. they are a great clutch. hold heaps of power and nice to drive. same goes for the nismo coppermix. the OS clutches in general a bit less 'street friendly' but are super tough. I haven't tried the street version you linked but I imagine it'd be quieter and possibly a bit more user frendly so probably a good thing.

yes bellhousing is the same as late model R32 with pull type clutch.

as far as noise goes most twin plates are noisy with foot on the clutch pedal. it's the plates rattling in the carrier. usually the ATS clutches are a bit quieter as they are carbon fibre plates. I really like the ATS carbon twin plates. they are a great clutch. hold heaps of power and nice to drive. same goes for the nismo coppermix. the OS clutches in general a bit less 'street friendly' but are super tough. I haven't tried the street version you linked but I imagine it'd be quieter and possibly a bit more user frendly so probably a good thing.

Thanks Beer Baron, looks like I will get the R33 box then and probably the Street Master OS Giken clutch. I have to email RHD to see why the checkout price is about 9-10% more than the shown yen price :glare:

  • 1 month later...

I think mine is just the standard from what I've been told when i purchased.

Stood up and taken some rather nasty abuse the last 12 months and still holds fine.

I think Piggaz & a couple others have the Comp spec one?

Thanks for the reply, I will be ordering some stuff from RHD in the next 2 weeks and was trying to decide which version clutch to get. If the comp spec one isn't too harsh I will get one of those.

Im also planning on getting Nismo engine mounts, gearbox mount, and rear diff mount at the same time. They wont cause too much chassis vibration will they?

cheers

Personally I'd be goin the nismo twin plate, just did one on a mates car and it feels great, bout 2000g from rhd, also got one for my car.

Also I know ur lokin at a gettin a new box but just for reference sake I got mine done with new bearings and syncros for 1300 include labour, I pulled the box out.

On both occasions I have bought from rhd I haven't paid tax.. Just talk to them and u should get out of it...I'd be gettin my gear box from them.

Standard box will handle 330rwkw fine if u treat it properly

It's a straight six motor which is long itself, coupled to a ridiculously long gearbox.

I tried to do an engine r&r with the gearbox in and ended up bending a clutch plate.

If I had to do it again, I would prop the car up as high as I could (front and rear wheels) with engine stands and 10 layers of redundancy for safety.

Then I would uncouple the rear shaft, loosen the engine mounts and let the gearbox drop slightly to get to the top 2 bolts.

Then I'd undo everthing else, (front driveshaft to transfer case) and put a trolley jack under the gearbox to take the weight.

Then, with a friend, undo the rest of the gearbox bolts and slight it out.

I think other people have done it with engine and trans attached out the bonnet, but I just couldn't see how it was possible myself.

This is how I did it in the past, jacked the car just over half a meter in the air, put 4 rims under it so if it fell I wouldn't die. Jack under the end of the box, undid tail shaft and me and a mate either side of it lowered it down.

Putting it back in was a bit of a prick, same job but with the gearbox resting on my chest, I then bench pressed it up and my mate lined it up and put the bolts in. Probably wouldn't recommend this if you don't do anything lifting though as it is f**king heavy.

GTR_JOEY- I'm going to get the nismo twin plate, and im likely to get an OS 5 speed gearset and get the gearbox overhauled, or overhaul it myself (if it doesn't look too difficult). Im getting prices off of Just Jap and will see what they come up with. I know what it will cost to get the parts from RHD so we will see how close Just Jap come.

Rolls- I have experience in replacing gearbox's dangerously, luckily this time we will have a car hoist so it will make the job slightly less painful!

cheers

Nismo C-spec no difference in pedal feel its just the clamp load .

I've had both the standard Super Coppertwin and the C-spec.

You can upgrade the standard Super Coppertwin to the C-spec by buying C-spec outer cover at a later date if you want.

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