Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 209
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ohh yeah i think if u are planing to put money into the internals or the motor u should get a 25 coz u will be already spending alot of cash but yea i have never intended to put cash into internals

i have 150rwk and what i no is done to the car as i have only had it a few months is

3 inch dump pipe till the canon

splitfire coilpacks

and frount mount intercooler

my planes are nistune , injectors probly gtr and a bosch fuel pump and a 25 turbo i am hoping of this i wll have 170rwk

FWIW, I have a pretty honest 170rwkW from a stock RB20 with Nistune, splitfires (only really there because the originals died), 14 psi, cooler, split dump and 3". Standard AFM, injectors and turbo are effectively maxxed out at that point.

If you put bigger injectors and turbo in, then you're going to want to put a Z32 AFM in as well. Otherwise you'll be clipped off at the max that the RB20 AFM can do for you (unless you like living a bit dangerously). You'd be well advised to consider a different turbo to an RB25 unit as well, just so you can get a few extra pounds of boost into it and really make the other mods worthwhile (those being the injectors and Nistune mainly).

A highflowed rb25 turbo with small spec wheels would be a good idea, something highflowed to GT2530 or smaller specs would be appropriate for an rb20, ~210-220kw, anymore and it gets too laggy for a street car imo, which is where an rb25 is great, can make 250kw with close to stock response.

fact is any money spent on a RB20 is a f**king waste of time. All this shit about RB20s are under rated etc. f**ken bullshit.

Its a low capacity motor that has too short of a stroke to spool a turbo properly.

whats this talk of $6k?

Buy RB25 for $1k, spend $5k making it awesome

Buy RB25 head for $500 and spend $5,500 on a RB30 bottom end and make it even more awesome.

If you want to waste $6k on a RB20, then go for it, proves there are still stupid people out there that think they are awesome "doing something different".

I'll still lap you in a standard bottom end RB25\30 motor, that cost half the price. Good luck.

well what i think is that its a bit sad that most people on this forum put down one motor because the most of them have the other kind

the thing is that the r32 gtst must be doing somthing right if it cost just the same amount of money as the newer model

and also when u say people are stupid trying coz they trying to do something differnt.

when u say this i am guessing you have a r33 just like 90% or skyline owners on here...

if someone wants to stand out from the crowd a litle you shuldnt have to bag them out about it ... it like me saying you are stupid coz your nick name is calling the marfia ...what i think is that all you are if a 30 year old man who is trying to stand out from the crowd by trying act tough... i would usualy keep this to myself

but not 4 u... and it makes me think what is a 30year old trying to prove anyway shouldnt u be marryied or sumthing not trying to be sum gangsta

I dont know Mafia. I would have spent 6k on my RB20 with ecu, injectors, fuel pump, turbo and manifold and tuning....would do some things differently if I did it all again but 50,000kms in a std engine making between 235-275rwkws and plenty of track work means I dont think its been a waste if money. Hell I cant think of any rwd cars be it RB25, SR20 etc rhat us as quick as my RB20 at Sandown which is pretty much a hp track...so cant be too bad a thing

General rule is if you go bigger RB you have to expect the gearbox will be a problem much sooner. So add gearbox, tailshaft... it all adds up. Coolant, oils new water pump and belrs etc...do it once, do it right and it costs money. So many people talk about how cheap they can do things and not sure its sound advice to people who are spending money at a mechanics as they may not have know how, space, time or a combination of

well what i think is that its a bit sad that most people on this forum put down one motor because the most of them have the other kind

the thing is that the r32 gtst must be doing somthing right if it cost just the same amount of money as the newer model

and also when u say people are stupid trying coz they trying to do something differnt.

when u say this i am guessing you have a r33 just like 90% or skyline owners on here...

if someone wants to stand out from the crowd a litle you shuldnt have to bag them out about it ... it like me saying you are stupid coz your nick name is calling the marfia ...what i think is that all you are if a 30 year old man who is trying to stand out from the crowd by trying act tough... i would usualy keep this to myself

but not 4 u... and it makes me think what is a 30year old trying to prove anyway shouldnt u be marryied or sumthing not trying to be sum gangsta

If you're a normal SAU user, skip down a paragraph to the bit where the stars start, otherwise this little bit for our smcqueen fellow will waste your time.

Smcqueen...ok.. I Haven't replied to one of these for a while, and I am in the mood so I will.

Firstly, if you want to get personal, then, I'll reply with a personalised response. Yes, I HAD an R33. It was written off by some f**kwit that never gave way at a green light I was driving straight through at 55kmph. Landed me in hospital.

Wow, you read my age. I'm actually still 29. Definitely not trying to stand out of the crowd though, because there are plenty of other young dickheads doing that, with bright cars, stickers, planking to their deaths falling from balconies and cars moving at high speed, noisy f**kwit chirping twirly blow off valves that they think will make women get naked and dive into their car (99% of women over the age of 18 actually think they are wankers with small d!cks), and Ventmo wastegates.

ok moving on - I don't think I should be married, I quite happy banging some of the finest asses in QLD at the moment, and I think I will stay that way. I've got plenty of cash, I'm relatively quiet, and I have a big dick, so I don't need other things to extend it, like "standing out" from the crowd. I don't care if you don't believe me either, because I only need to prove that to women.

The Mafia was a name people called me when younger and I guess it stuck. People f**ked me over bad enough, and I'd hurt them bad enough. Was a fair exchange. Not trying to "act" like anything like a lot of you younger fellows need to do. I just get by in life. I act like me. And last guy I beat the shit out of, was twice my size, and I had a very vaild reason to. I don't like fighting.

*********************

Normal SAU users can start reading here:

Now thats off my chest - The reason I know this shit is because I'm a tuner. I have also built my very own RB25 headed 30 bottom end engine. All myself, no mechanics, no help, etc. Just took a block to a machine shop, and brought it back honed, acid dipped etc. Did the final wash with a 3000psi aqua blaster, dried and lubed, and assembled it myself.

Here is a very vague list of cars that I have tuned (probably over 100 now).

R34 GTR with twin HKS 2530s

R33 GTR Standard

R33 GTR worked like f**k

Forged WRX built for 9 second passes

R33 GTS-T standard

R33 GTS-T big turbo

R32 GTS-T Standard

R32 GTS-T with RB25 equipped Standard

R32 GTS-T with big turbo

R32 GTS-4 with TD06 12cm

RX7 13B with GT3540 (My tuning career nearly stopped suddenly with this one...)

Various SR20s

Various CA18s

RB30s (VL Turbos)

Ok, if you see a pattern there. Most notable were a couple. Guy had a R32 GTS-T with a RB20 in it. Put a bigger turbo on it, and it made 200rwkw. I rewired a GTR ECU to run this car because the didn't make the AP engineering Powerfc anymore.

After a good few tunes and a few runs, it was done, and it was a f**king big let down. Laggy, nothing until 4,500rpm, un responsive, and no torque. wow. Money well spent.

Then, I tuned another. R32 GTS-T, had a standard internal RB25 installed, garrett GT3037 with a 0.82 rear housing. And for the love of f**k, this thing went well. Smoke from the guards in the first three gears, sideways when you wanted it, and just pulled like a 14 year old boy that just got his first porno mag.

Then a tuned a RB2630 installed into a R32 GTS-T. This thing was sex on wheels.

All the R32s that had the same or bigger engines installed as my R33 tank definitely had quite an improvement in acceleration, torque, and handling.

The RB20 engine is too small for a bigger turbo. The exhaust pulses are too small to spool a turbo early, this is why a SR20 will bring a same sized turbo on earlier than an RB20. Turbos like BIG exhaust pulses, not lots of little ones. Its a physics thing, and I wont get into that as it will double the length of my post, and you can barely string a structured sentence together or even spell so I'm 95% sure that wouldn't understand my explaination anyway.

So, at the end of the day. Being different when it comes to engines means this - You'll have an empty wallet, and you won't be winning any races. On the track, people don't give a shit how different your engine is. As long as the power delivery is good, torque everywhere etc, its what counts. Being different engine wise certainly does not pull roots either.

Edited by The Mafia

No disrespect here, but smcqueen89 I think you need to realize as Mafia has pointed out, that a lot of the users of the forum here, esp Roy aka "Mr RB20", have been playing with these cars and motors a lot longer than a single post can show. Reading between the lines sometimes means taking advice for what it is, without question. No one tries to re invent the wheel to do something different. People are letting you know their experiences of what and where to best spend cash. Turning around and having a go at people for their age or experience isnt cool, but as a guess by your own username, people have been playing with these cars while you were still in primary school.

At some point when you want real advice, and dont want to try argue something that has been done to death, then the people who know best wont be giving up that advice so easily.

I have noticed that nobody trys to much past bolt ons on the rb20. I am working on one and will be doing a bit of head work. I am not going to go crazy or anything. I will be cleaning up the ports and shaving the head down a little as well. I really think this will help the motor spool a bigger turbo faster then a standard rb20, as well as add power from a better flowing head.

I do think people underrate the rb20det comapaired to the rb25/26/30. Now dont get me wrong, I do think, well know, the 25/26/30 are all better. Its just that the rb20, from what I have seen, has less r&d put into it. Nobody even trys to do work to the head to make it better, they just say trash it and go rb25/6/30. This lets the 20 down and is the main reason nobody makes much power with the 20. Think how lame it would be if every motor ever moded was treated the same way, after bolt ons put something bigger in. It would be real lame, there would be no monster rb30det builds no 500+whp rb25dets being daily driven and no 1000+whp supras. These all came from people stepping outside the box and doing stuff nobody esle had done. Its not "reinventing the wheel" its building motors. Some motors are easier to make powr out of then others, but this does not mean its a waste to build the others.

Most of you that read this will probably think I am crazy, and thats cool as I could care less. I love the rb motors and untill I have the money for the rb20dets big brothers I am going to work with the rb20det. I do everything myself and am going to see what I can get out of the rb20det, and I am not starting with a big turbo like everyone else. I am starting with the head and will make it better. I am going to stop with this long winded post.

I do think people underrate the rb20det comapaired to the rb25/26/30. Now dont get me wrong, I do think, well know, the 25/26/30 are all better. Its just that the rb20, from what I have seen, has less r&d put into it. Nobody even trys to do work to the head to make it better, they just say trash it and go rb25/6/30. This lets the 20 down and is the main reason nobody makes much power with the 20. Think how lame it would be if every motor ever moded was treated the same way, after bolt ons put something bigger in. It would be real lame, there would be no monster rb30det builds no 500+whp rb25dets being daily driven and no 1000+whp supras. These all came from people stepping outside the box and doing stuff nobody esle had done. Its not "reinventing the wheel" its building motors. Some motors are easier to make powr out of then others, but this does not mean its a waste to build the others.

No the main reason why the 20 sucks is because it is only 2L, has nothing to do with R&D. Even with head work etc (which imo will make it worse down low) it will still suck down low and have no torque, nothing you do will change this, it will always spool turbos later because it has less capacity. It IS a waste to build one compared to putting the money towards another motor.

You can't make 300kw with an RB20 and expect it to be daily drivable, ti will be a dog, a completely stock rb25 however will make this power and still be nice to drive around town, two main reasons for this, extra 0.5L capacity and it has VCT which the rb20 does not, it also has a higher compression ratio of 9:1 opposed to 8.5:1

The reason no one does what you are proposing to do is because they realise what I have said above and see that it would be a complete waste of money. There is doing something different because you are smart and know it will work, and there is doing something different for the sake of it. The latter is dumb.

Edited by Rolls

This has to be the most pointless thread on the forums right now.

For the money, the most drivable setup will be a basic RB30 with an RB25 head on top and a highflow RB25 turbo.

EDIT: I can just see this happening "Hey nice car, whats that an RB20 in there?" "Nah mate, RB24! Its got custom pistons, mismatched crank and rods, heaps of money spent on the head, cams, expensive turbo and manifold" "oooooh ok, well my stockish RB25 will smash that and its standard bottom end" "yeah mate but its not unique like my RB24" "yeah you're right, its just faster instead"

No the main reason why the 20 sucks is because it is only 2L, has nothing to do with R&D. Even with head work etc (which imo will make it worse down low) it will still suck down low and have no torque, nothing you do will change this, it will always spool turbos later because it has less capacity. It IS a waste to build one compared to putting the money towards another motor.

You can't make 300kw with an RB20 and expect it to be daily drivable, ti will be a dog, a completely stock rb25 however will make this power and still be nice to drive around town, two main reasons for this, extra 0.5L capacity and it has VCT which the rb20 does not, it also has a higher compression ratio of 9:1 opposed to 8.5:1

The reason no one does what you are proposing to do is because they realise what I have said above and see that it would be a complete waste of money. There is doing something different because you are smart and know it will work, and there is doing something different for the sake of it. The latter is dumb.

So the sr sucks too then? As last I checked they were 2.0l too. Its not the fact they are 2.0l its the fact that nobody wants to make the heads better. I have said it before ,and will post links to back me up, the head is what makes the power. So, if the head flows like crap, how can you make good power and a good power band? You cant. So, without head work your really holding yourself back and setting yourself up to fail.

Making the head flow better will not automaticly make it more of a dog down low. I dont mean porting the hell out of the ports when I say make it flow better, cause that will do just what you say. The compression can be changed so thats really a moot point. If you get the head to flow better, and up the compression it will make the a world of difference in the lowend and spool time of the turbo. Now will it make the rb20 as good or better then the 25/26/30? No, as they are bigger and will be easier to make power with. It will however make the rb20 a lot better.

I will keep you guys posted cause I will be doing head work and uping the compression.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...