Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, as the title says im installing a boost guage in the GTR

everything is all sorted but i cant get the farkin boost pressure pipe thing (that hooks up to the back of the guage) from the engine bay to the interior....

any body got any tips on where to find a firewall to squeeze the tube through??

I got told there is one at the top left of the engine bay but I tried forever and couldnt get anything through

any tips/suggestions/prior experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

U

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369316-help-boost-guage-install-33-gtr/
Share on other sites

There's a few good guides on here on installing boost gauges, i ran mine through the firewall just to the right above the accelerator pedal had to cut a little hole through the rubber gromet carefully and came up back through the engine bay just near the little black box i think the stock boost gauge hose runs into was fairly easy was a hassle grabbing the hose though used some long nose pliers

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/102049-boost-gauge-and-pillar-pods/page__hl__pillar+gauge+install

i used this guide worked well has pics :)

Edited by nismo07

i c... thanks for that... im not too sure if GTS-T and GTRs have the same setup... i remember it was really easy on my old GTS-T... on the GTR is an absolute mission for some reason

ill look around the accelerator on the weekend but im pretty sure its the same one i tried today

cheers

i c... thanks for that... im not too sure if GTS-T and GTRs have the same setup... i remember it was really easy on my old GTS-T... on the GTR is an absolute mission for some reason

ill look around the accelerator on the weekend but im pretty sure its the same one i tried today

cheers

Yea im not sure either wouldn't see why they wouldn't be though :wacko: took me ages to find the rubber grommet though was really buried ...

'Would like to add that the R33 GTR's don't have that hole in the firewall next to the stereo. Instead you'll have to cut open the large rubber grommet where the loom travels through, which is just to the right of the accelerator cable behind the insulating stuff.'

looks like i have some cutting to do on the weekend

thanks!

jesus dont cut anything grab a bloody piece of long wire or electrical line tape the vac line to the hard wire and poke it thru the gromet thus making a clean hole not butchering crap jesus

just wanted to add one more " JESUS " :D

Edited by v8tzr

jesus dont cut anything grab a bloody piece of long wire or electrical line tape the vac line to the hard wire and poke it thru the gromet thus making a clean hole not butchering crap jesus

just wanted to add one more " JESUS " :D

+1 Epic replythumbsup.gif

agreed. there is no need to cut any grommet anywhere on the firewall in any model GTR just to get a boost hose through there. I can get plenty of sensor wires, boost hoses etc throuhg the various grommets without cutting anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...