R33 Boot Install For Subwoofer Tutorial

[GoHard]

Hey guys and gals,

Was trying to come up with an alternative to having a sub box sitting in the boot... It would seem to end up on the other side of the boot on occasions

So I was looking around for some ideas and saw a forum member made custom f/g enclosures for the right hand side but I want my boot back so I came up with a way to fit a 12" sub behind the strut bar... with only one screw! Still needs a layer of carpet but cfb at the moment. You get the drift.

Tools You will need:

-16mm MDF. Bunnings sells a piece 450mm x 900mm that fits PERFECTLY for $9.50

-Jig Saw

-Drill

-8mm Drill Bit

-Socket Wrench (with 12mm and 21mm sockets)

-Measuring Tape

-Pencil

-Your sub and a boot of a r33 (Series II)

-8x50mm Machine Screw

I'm not sure if all boots are the same. I have the rear wiper and the motor clears it no worries. If you follow all the measurments exactly it should fit straight in. First, Strip everything out. the side bits of carpet, the back, the floor, the spare wheel and the strut bar only (21mm socket) Once this is off wack on the 12mm Socket and take the left stut mount off.

Now. I dont know what order all these pictures are gonna come out like so you may have to do some scrolling around but all the pictures below with the dimensions are your template

Because of the variations in sizes of a '900 x 450' piece of MDF all measurements are taken from the top. Do not measure from the bottom. The Sub hole size is for my sub btw... I dont know how big yours is...

Cut all all the pieces out with the jigsaw and drill and do a test fit. There is a bit of a technique to getting it in there. First get the top behind the wiper motor, while moving it to the right, behind the Right Strut Mount. The bottom part of this Strut mount should slide into The 8mm x 27mm cut-out. Next, put the 8mm Machine Screw in the hole and line it up with the hole in the bracket hanging down from the top left. If it all fits well, put the left strut mount back on to see if there is clearance (unfortunatley its such a tight fit, taking this off is the only way to get the MDF in and out) All good? Take it all out and screw your sub in.

Ok, once your ready to put it in, grab the carpet lining for the left hand side and get some tape and feed it through the bottom hole and then through the bottom hole of the left strut bar. this will hold the top hole in place for the machine screw to go through the top hole in the carpet. I know this sounds confusing... I am struggling to explain it but you will get what I am talking about when your doing it. Heres a photo... Massive bodgey Job but it's just to hold it there.

its all you need. as I say its just to hold it. now start tucking it all behind the MDF as you put the strut mount back on the two studs. before the machine screw goes in, line the hole up with the holes in the carpet and the bracket and pop it through, with the carpet inbetween the MDF and the bracket. the weight will hold the machine screw in there tightly. Now put the nylon nuts back on the strut mount.

Now you can put the strut bar back on and the bolts will actually dig into the MDF a bit and lock it in there. Thats how you can get away with no fixing points. Although I do reccomend finding some other way of supporing it. there are heaps of screw holes around, just use your imagination. I made a bracket that attatched to the fuel pump cover but that was before I realised the threads are like... nylon or some cheap crap. I don't wanna go pulling on them but this is what it looked like before I decided to turf it.

Then just stick your amps where ever you like. here's where I stuck em...

and this weapon is no more...

Any Questions feel free. Good Luck

[gotRICE?]

Not bad!

Me being anal, ill probly hide the amp away somewhere.

Question, if you spun the sub around, does it clear the HICAS etc ECU's under there? I use my boot more often than not so flush mounted would be more ideal for me. Once its carpeted itl look nice

[GoHard]

Hey bro cheers.

Naah it's a bit of a bitch aye. Thats what I wanted to do at first, but It wasn't gonna happen. With that size sub anyway, and its got a pretty small arse for a 12" I rekon. You would also be surprised how little space it takes up. Because its mounted from the other side that takes a bit of the size off, and its raised up a bit. Hell of a lot less space than the box anyway.

None of it actually planned out how I wanted it Flush wouldn't work because of as you said, ecu's or whatever they are hanging down. and turning it around as I have done isn't really practical because the strut bar only lets you go so high, and it doesn't clear the shelf-thing in front. If you have a look in the 10th pic down, you can just make out a pencil line of where the sub would be... about a 3rd is booming about 50mm away from steel. It still sounds fine though. I don't boom the thing. its just for an extra kick. I wouldn't mind actually getting one of those strut bars that go under the rear window, and piss the stock one off. Its a pain.

I dunno if this would be a good idea, but you could have the amps in that space your talking about. Thats where they originally were but dont like the idea of having them in there heating up and getting bass spat at them.

KiWi bRo! Too Meke, OOUUR!

My sister lives in Wellington.

[Duchie]

Pretty sick idea man i love it! I have sadly been forced to give up my boot for my two subs

[Tommy Kaira RL]

Nice work with the install. You get a lot more boot space that way. I like a good DIY here is a photo of mine I did. I shifted a few things and got the sub to fit pefectly. Had 1cm clearnce all round.

[Borci88]

Worked well for me thankyou for the guide, for now the sub has to sit upside down because the inputs hit the shelf there. Just letting you know you didn't draw

up the dimensions for the cut in the bottom left corner.

Cheers!

[Tommy Kaira RL]

^you could drill holes just in front of the terminals on the amp and then poke the wires through the holes from the back for hidden wiring then carpet.

[AndyNor]

looks good guys. but you get a lot more out of your sub with a right size box. its ment to be in a closed box but looks very good

[Borci88]

^you could drill holes just in front of the terminals on the amp and then poke the wires through the holes from the back for hidden wiring then carpet.

I had that in my old car, I'll be doing it soon but rainy day and no carpet yet I thought I'd leave it for now

[GoHard]

Ah Sick fellas! How does it sound backwards like that? looks much nicer.

Now I don't know if it was because my sub was a cheap POS, or this:

looks good guys. but you get a lot more out of your sub with a right size box. its ment to be in a closed box but looks very good

But my sub has died... Dunno what happened but it just rattles now. Its all good because it gave me the excuse to get a new sub. Got a dual 4 ohm so I can pump it at 2ohm and the fat bastard dont fit behind the strut anymore...Hell, It wouldn't even fit back in the original enclosure

So yeah just keep that in mind guys, I don't think free-airing a enclosure type sub could damage it, but... Yeah, careful fellas

[SargeRX8]

You shouldn't really run your sub like this. A sub is meant to differentiate the rear from the front in two separate air chambers to get the best sound. If you want just some nice bass and nothing over the top, get a pioneer free air subwoofer. Doesn't need a box and can be mounted like a normal speaker. A fair few companies make free air subwoofers but they are a little hard to find. Cheap from the US too with our current dollar.

[Borci88]

Ah Sick fellas! How does it sound backwards like that? looks much nicer.

Now I don't know if it was because my sub was a cheap POS, or this:

Pretty damn woeful but it's not actually bolted down at the moment which makes the timber vibrate but not the actual car, nevermind though in the new skyline it will be done properly with this board. Does look much better when you pop the boot though, and the extra space is always good.