Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.pickles.com.au/damaged/vehicle/CP-03-02-Nissan-Stagea-M35-AR-X-Four-Wagon-5-Seats-4-Doors/itemid-1-252253726/lotid-252271929

i'll watch it later on today.. doesnt need much to fix by the look of things. bar bonnet guard grill...

was thinking about getting back into one and selling the evo.. but its a bit soon..

was it anyones here??

its crazy they pay out cars with so little damage the cost of the parts from nissan must be huge. 10k atleast..

my guess is about 8-10k auction price..

someone could have a nice looking axis for about 15k on the road.. however not in nsw.

Yeah the quote he received for new parts was fairly excessive. You could technically have it on the road for a lot less, but I think to repair a write off you need proof that quality parts were used? Either way, the breakdown for new parts was:

New parts from NISSAN japan come to a total of $14K.....

brief breakdown;

Bonnet - $3.7K

LH Headlamp - $2.2K

Bumper - $2.3K

Grille - $1.8K

Radiator support panel - $1.4K

Quality parts no, just need to provide receipts of parts used.. this was done to stop the people stealing cars. stripping them out, buying them back at auction and re fitting all the parts.. good ol sneaky Bankstown eh?

will have to long on soon to check it out.. will be up around 1pm today

will let you all know here what it makes..

I'd say you could have had that on road for 9k...

however i just read the info forum.. and the insurance company offered it back to him for 6K?

i expect to see this up next week again.. passed intoday possibly..

  • 1 year later...

Gents, this was my wifey's old Axis....definitely was only cosmetic damage but got paid out and 48hrs funds were in my account. It went for $3200. Ins offered it back to me for $6K.

The guy that purchased it was a panel beater so lucky for him all his labour to get it back on the road was free. It did still set him back about $5K in parts. It was going to cost me all up $10-11K to have back on the road AND having said that it will of have the repairable writeoff against it's VIN history.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...