Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

going to replace my stock clutch, flywheel, spiggot bearing, thrust bearing, and clutch fork pivot.

im saving for exedy hd cusion button clutch, exedy lightweight flywheel, and nismo pivot.

i did a transit van clutch yesterday at work, to get the spiggot bearing out i drilled a hole in the back and slide hammered it out, can i do the same on my gts4?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370086-removing-spiggot-bearing/
Share on other sites

If you do a search this has been discussed before - most recommend packing the area with grease then hammering a shaft that's the same diameter as the spigot hole into it, which makes the grease push the back of the spigot and it should pop out. Didnt work for me tho....

someone told me about the grease method but really didnt like the sound of that so i tried my own way, worked well tho i think im going to get a clutch alignment tool and bearing puller... cos not all bearings will be the same

ive decided im going to do the rear main seal while the box is out too.

i have been driving around with the clutch slip for awhile now, only slips once the car heats up anything and around 4500-5000 rpm it starts to slip and rev out, would this be doing my engine and gearbox any damage?

i got another transit job.. this one has a leaky rear main seal, and a ASM box and i have to do it on the ground... fml

i just want to work on my car

i find quickest and easiest way is CARFULLY die grind the bush until its very thin with a die grinder and metal burr, then just a few taps with a hammer and screwdriver will split it into pieces, take the bits out with long nose pliers, use the air gun to blow out any swarf, done. probably takes 5-10 min to take your time, as you obviously don't want to be grinding your crank away with the die grinder

yeah man, the slide hammer of death haha.

ill try hook the slide hammer in there and get it out other wise i can cut it out, or bash it out with grease.

gonna get light flywheel, cusion button, rear main seal, bell housing/engine gasket, spiggot & thrust bearings, nismo clutch fork pivot. is there anything im missing?

yeah thanks people.

i noticed the replacement item is a bush not a bearing?

if thats the cased i will have to remove it with the grease packing method or grind through it and cave it in

Well its a bush (aka plain aka journal) bearing, just not a roller bearing. You can get roller spigots, but i've heard they're not reliable. Its also made from sintered bronze, so its full of tiny holes, and the holes are used hold lubricant.

yeah man, the slide hammer of death haha.

ill try hook the slide hammer in there and get it out other wise i can cut it out, or bash it out with grease.

gonna get light flywheel, cusion button, rear main seal, bell housing/engine gasket, spiggot & thrust bearings, nismo clutch fork pivot. is there anything im missing?

Nah, thats a good list (if you like button clutches...:). Some suggest doing the gearbox input shaft seal, but i didnt bother. What's the bellhousing/engine gasket? I think you may be assuming there's something there that inst!

If you do a search this has been discussed before - most recommend packing the area with grease then hammering a shaft that's the same diameter as the spigot hole into it, which makes the grease push the back of the spigot and it should pop out. Didnt work for me tho....

i use wet cardboard in the same manor and it worked every time without fail

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...