Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can't mess with the knock sensors very easily. They are really just piezo microphones. They listen and feed the waveform back to the knock board in the ECU which decides if it's hearing knock or not. If you wanted to fake a knock sense, then you'd need to send a convincing waveform that you'd have to synthesize somehow.

From my experience with the knock sensors and the knock map, the whole thing is not reliable anyway. I couldn't get my ECU to stay on the main map even though it wasn't pinging, so we just did what a lot of Nistuners do, which is to make both maps the same. That way you don't find yourself drivign around on a soft map, and the extra safety actor can go to hell. My ECU has been tuned like that for a few years now, and there has not been a single moment where it has been bad.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That was me with the CarPC and switching maps and PULP98 and E-Flex and all that...

After running between the 2 different fuels for a while now, I've found it a bit of a waste of time...

As in i wanted to get around the "draining the tank and then switching fuels" But I end up just loading the PULP98 map and trimming the AFR's to suit for the couple of "Inbetween tanks" where the mix is somewhere in the middle of E70 and E0.

But having 2, 3, 4, as many maps as you'd like is easy with NIStune.

As for the capacity of power limits ect. forget about it...

You can't mess with the knock sensors very easily. They are really just piezo microphones. They listen and feed the waveform back to the knock board in the ECU which decides if it's hearing knock or not. If you wanted to fake a knock sense, then you'd need to send a convincing waveform that you'd have to synthesize somehow.

Just make a headphone jack for the knock loom and plug it into some really bad metal, lol.

If ever there was a bad way to achieve something - you guys have found it

Buy an ECU that gives you all the functions you want. If you really wanted to do double maps, you can do what some of the Jap companies were doing and doing a double EPROM with a switch on pin 1 for power or whatever it was. It just swapped power to the other EPROM and ran a seperate map.

Doing it with knock sensors is kinda dodgey and pretty funny at the same time.

If ever there was a bad way to achieve something - you guys have found it

I don't think anyone was actually going to bother heh.

Buy an ECU that gives you all the functions you want. If you really wanted to do double maps, you can do what some of the Jap companies were doing and doing a double EPROM with a switch on pin 1 for power or whatever it was. It just swapped power to the other EPROM and ran a seperate map.

Doing it with knock sensors is kinda dodgey and pretty funny at the same time.

In the $2k range what ECU would you recommend? The V500 still?

I don't think anyone was actually going to bother heh.

In the $2k range what ECU would you recommend? The V500 still?

Yeah the V500 is actually more advanced than the Motec at this point. Runs 6 multi controllers and is the only ECU other than Motec that does.

You need to read up on this ECU to fully understand what it is capable of. You can overlay each map over each other and each multi controller has 6 inputs and outputs or something like that. Each one can be made as a 32x32 table which can be layed over any other table.

So you can do boost over wheel speed over tps over fuel pressure over nitrous pressure over ignition timing if you want

Pretty much whatever you can imagine.

Only after swapping to the V500 did all our problems go away.

As far as I know it's really good. I am not a tuner, just an end user. From what I have seen though, it is very 'thorough'. I don't think it's something just anybody can get a handle of. You need to know what you are doing. I have heard people complain about the current software but it's always stuff that exceeds their knowledge so they are only complaining in ignorance

I don't think anyone was actually going to bother heh.

In the $2k range what ECU would you recommend? The V500 still?

V500 is junk... cannot be compared to a $1400 LINK G4 or Vipec or haltech for that matter... worlds apart in quality.

V500 is junk... cannot be compared to a $1400 LINK G4 or Vipec or haltech for that matter... worlds apart in quality.

This is pretty much what my mates tell me, but I always hear conflicting reports on here, though I get the feeling the people who say it is good don't actually use it.

Heard much about the DTAFast range of ECUs?

Edited by Rolls

Lol @ using a vibrator to set the knock sensor off.

Im not 100% sure but if the knock sensor is faulty it will run on the knock maps. I havent checked the resistance on a faulty sensor but i know a good sensor is 570kohm.

So if it was as simple as setting a 2nd wiring circuit with a higher/lower resistor so when u switch to the 2nd circuit it jumps to the knock maps.

I dont trust the knock maps. Especially at higher rpm where there is alot of valve train noise

If ever there was a bad way to achieve something - you guys have found it

Doing it with knock sensors is kinda dodgey and pretty funny at the same time.

I thought it was an AWSOME idea... ha ha ha. it's right up there with the clasics- trim pot on the afm, welding the clutchplate to the flywheel, skipping a tooth on the cam gear/belt on a vl rb30, stick on wrx bonnet scoops and plastic spinners rims.

J.

LOL

only thing i dont like about my NIStune is it doesnt show knock readings for the r32 gtr, but apparently Matt has been trying to make it work for years now...

You can get real knock (audible on knock ears) but have it not register on the knock count, I wouldn't trust the standard nissan system.

Non of them accurately show knock reading like power fc does michael.

The ecu has an internal knock board that senses knock which then switches to the knock maps. But doesnt let the user know when it does it.

would you prefer that the ecu shows you that its knowing and flashes a light at you yet does nothing about it and by then it may be too late (power fc) or would prefer an ecu that when it senses knocking reverts to a knock copy map which saves the engine. (nistune)

would you prefer that the ecu shows you that its knowing and flashes a light at you yet does nothing about it and by then it may be too late (power fc) or would prefer an ecu that when it senses knocking reverts to a knock copy map which saves the engine. (nistune)

The issue is it doesn't half the time. We put a set of knock ears on my old car and reved out 3rd gear on a hot day (30c) after idlding it around for 30 minutes to get it real hot and it started pinging its tits off, didn't go to the knock map where we had taken 5degrees out across the whole boost section.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...