Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

My car just got defective and i need to take it into Vic Roads for clearing it....part of the list is Air Filter...

Now, some says that we can have one mod, Air Pod or intercooler and some says that everything needs to be standard.....

i have clarified this with a mechanic that i can have air pod if my intercooler is standard, which it is....is that true???

i just need second opinion on this as i dont want to fail the test with Vic Roads....

Just for laugh....when i got pull over, the cop says that i should not have an intercooler on my car!!!!! i said its a turbo car and it need to have an intercooler....guess what his reply was???

NO, you shouldn't have an intercooler...i still cant believe it and still laugh to it till now!!!! i dont have anything against them as they are doing their job, but i think they need to know a bit more about cars if they want to pull someone over....dont you reckon???

Thanks guys :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370656-compliance-with-vic-roads/
Share on other sites

I'm not sure how VIC works .. but that seems abit harsh. For future reference just tell them that everything is factory standard .. and to take it up with Nissan if they have issue's. Has worked for me and some of my mates, *shrug* but that's in QLD / NSW

Clearing defects can be a pain, hang in there.

Standard intercooler in place - pod filters are ok as long they aren't oil based.

^ This.

If you do NOT have oiled pods, then I'd be contesting the defect to prove a point.

100% one intake modification is legal on a GTR as long as they are non-oil PODs.

if you have the bits just put the stock bits back on to clear the issue and get on with it

no need to contest it if you have the parts and its a a simple swap - or even borrow them

this..

why bother. just swap it back after n keep a copy of the code for the next cop that tries to defect you for it.

screw fighting with them, just because you fight it with one cop, doesnt mean the next cop wont know

if you have the bits just put the stock bits back on to clear the issue and get on with it

no need to contest it if you have the parts and its a a simple swap - or even borrow them

There is a need to contest.

EVERY single incorrect defect, fine & otherwise should be contested.

If people stopped being such pussies and defended themselves - the courts would soon become clogged and the system would then be looked at.

People rolling over are the reason people keep getting reamed.

Any incorrect defect notice - I've taken to court. And will do so until i die.

There is a need to contest.

EVERY single incorrect defect, fine & otherwise should be contested.

If people stopped being such pussies and defended themselves - the courts would soon become clogged and the system would then be looked at.

People rolling over are the reason people keep getting reamed.

Any incorrect defect notice - I've taken to court. And will do so until i die.

Well said.

Why would you not contest it, if you get a defect for something that is legal then why wouldnt you contest it.

If I ever get a bullshit defect they will never hear the end of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...