Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my BOV was leaking boost a few weeks ago and I wasn't hitting the throttle on the car due to that till I finally put a new one yesterday adjusted it and all was running perfect I drove the car hard and had a bit of fun (not too much though). I went to my girl's house parked it on an inclined parking lot, car had about a quarter tank of gas left (maybe a bit more) and when I came out of her house and got into the car here's what happened:

1- I put the key in the ignition with the car on neutral to start it up and let it warm up for a minute but it wouldn't start, I hit the switch a couple of times till it finally started.

2- The car had a really ROUGH idle as if it was trying to turn off if I would slow down without dropping gears it would barely even keep running.

3- A very bad fuel smell came inside the car, almost felt as if there was a loose fuel line or something and then I noticed that whatever the fuel meter was dropping insanely fast so I stopped at a gas station to check the car and waited for a friend.

4- Car was blowing white smoke and smelled like fuel all over the place with no visible leaks either.

We checked for loose lines, checked the maf sensor, checked the fuel pressure regulator, but couldn't find anything visually out of place. So I left the car there since this particular gas station is quite close to my mechanic and it's 24/7 service so the guys said they didn't mind. I wanted to avoid driving as much on the car.

So I'm going to pick it up in a few hours, to take it to the shop but wanted to see if anyone had any similar issues or maybe knows what might be up?

I was thinking maybe it's the turbine, spark plugs, maf sensor or coil packs but would any of this cause such a RICH gas smell?

Thanks guys.

How long was the car off for when you got out then in? If it wasn't long then I doubt its condensation build up.. White smoke its generally water in the piston. Where it came from, there could be a few places. Did you check coolant level? The excess fuel smell could be the water preventing proper combustion this shit power, stalling and white smoke. Hopefully nothing major but when water leaks, its generally not a good sign. People use water injection to cool intake but it's often mixed with meth or something else flammable to keep the cylinder firing. Check for a build up of pink shit around the block and underneath for water.

Please dont even start the car until you know what it is. You dont want to contaminate your oil with water. Check your dip stick and oil cap for signs of water.

Edited by SargeRX8

White smoke can also be oil getting into your exhaust from having a cracked ring. Im just brain storming. Check 02 sensor and try an alternate AFM. CAS could be something to check as well.

Was off for about 2 hours. I'll check the dipstick and radiator when I go back to pick up the car. If there's water in the Piston would that mean that I'll have to rebuild the engine?

Check dipstick and oil cap for a milky white goo (emulsified oil iirc).

If it is water and it got into the cylinder and managed to get into the block and sump, you may have some issues and a rebuild may be in order but everything I said was just an idea... Its plausible, but it is just to give you an idea. And as above, blue smoke is burnt oil, white smoke could be oil just burning off a hot component.

I don't think a failing component will cause white smoke but with this cold weather 2 hours is enough for condensation to build up and if the white smoke is condensation, your problem could be something as said above or even a spark plug missing causing the car to struggle... A compression test is a quick way to test the engine and if it looks leaky on one cylinder or two distant cylinders (one and three for example) do a leak down test to try locate the leak. If compression is low on

neighboring cylinders, its safe to say the head gasket is gone.

Was it fine until you parked? My car died the next day, was perfect the night before. My plugs were done.

I'm hoping that the issue is that I burnt the spark plugs. lol.

But my car was running great before, I was revving it nicely, it pulled great, car was slow before due to the boost leaks on the crappy BOV the car came with but I slapped on a new one so yesterday was my "lets see how well it's working day" and it worked perfectly all day. Came home at around 8, parked got out at around 9ish got to my girls at 10 parked the car and then when I came out at 12... surprise surprise all hell is breaking loose in the engine bay and white smoke out the exhaust. :(

I once drove around with 5 spark plugs just for a few minutes (went back to the shop right away to find that one coil was loose) and the sensation of how it felt yesterday is similar, feels as if the car is running on less cylinders I dare say half.

Your car will not run in 3 at 750rpm idle believe me. 4, yes. Check your plugs first,.its easier then doing all these other tests I've mentioned. you can risk it, start the car, stick some cardboard to keep the throttle open to say 1200rpm then unplug your coil wires one at a time. If one of them has no effect, you have located your problem. If they all cause the engine to struggle, switch it off, you have bigger problems

I'm hoping that the issue is that I burnt the spark plugs. lol.

But my car was running great before, I was revving it nicely, it pulled great, car was slow before due to the boost leaks on the crappy BOV the car came with but I slapped on a new one so yesterday was my "lets see how well it's working day" and it worked perfectly all day. Came home at around 8, parked got out at around 9ish got to my girls at 10 parked the car and then when I came out at 12... surprise surprise all hell is breaking loose in the engine bay and white smoke out the exhaust. :(

I once drove around with 5 spark plugs just for a few minutes (went back to the shop right away to find that one coil was loose) and the sensation of how it felt yesterday is similar, feels as if the car is running on less cylinders I dare say half.

lol half :P

Does the battery seem discharged?

Its very possible the engine is extremely flooded with fuel and it may be hydraulicallly locked.

This could be due to leaking injectors or th ecu thinking it need Lot of fuel due to a sensor issue.

Best to remove te spark plugs and see if the cylinder/s are full of fuel. Check the oil to see if it is over full(due to being topped up with petrol from the leaking injector)

Try to crank the motor with no spark plugs.

bad fuel smell and smoke could just mean your car is running rich for some reason or another..if you keep running it rich your plugs will foul and fuel wont ignite. Though I have never had one lock before, how long were you trying to run it like this :blink:

as dvs said try run it without spark plugs and clean the plugs while your at it would be a start..

But for future reference when your car is running rich, driving it wont usually fix the problem, im guessong but id say you have hooked something up wrong and its sucking in extra air so while your afm is getting one reading the o2 sensor is getting another so it has added a heap of extra fuel to compensate.

Then you tried to drive it and now its locked.. So you have turned a little problem into a big one

Moral of the story is, when your car isnt running right, dont drive it :no:

Not at all, the car kept a constant ROUGH idle as I drove it down to the Gas Station where I left it (it was near my mechanic and safer than where it was) I stopped it there, checked the engine, turned it on and off twice to see if any of the plugs or lines I jiggled and tightened would fix the deal but it didn't. So I turned it on once more to move it about 10 feet into the parking lot and left it there till 12-1pm today where I went and tried to start it. Engine did an initial spark (it moves once as if it tries to start) and then doesn't do a thing.

One thing that did worry me was the fuel, it was an outrageous amount of fuel. I'm talking I had maybe 5-6 gallons left and in about 15km it went down almost to empty... and I was driving at around 40kmph.

I don't know much about mechanics, just the basics. But it would seem as if maybe a sensor died or something and the fuel killed the plugs and wtv else got f**ked up.

It sounds like one of the injectors is stuck open, flooding one cylinder with fuel. When you tried to start it you may have blown the head gasket but hopefully (if it is just the injector) dump the oil, replace the sticky injector and you should be right.

I hope the mechanic can diagnose it for you quickly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...