Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The spread between them is a little larger than you'd like - normally not wanting more than 5 psi between them. That would indicate that perhaps 3 of the cylinders have started to suffer either more ring wear or maybe some changes around the valve seats that the others haven't so much. But really, please elaborate on how the test was done. Was the engine all warmed up? All plugs out? etc etc.

It's 5% rather than 5psi. You've got a difference of 10psi where it should be 7-8psi. Nothing major for the moment, just keep in mind for future tunes to tell them to make it safe. Also make sure you religiously change your oil and filter every 4-5000 and buy the good stuff!.

If its warm Its is a bit low, and i would expect to see 160psi in each cylinder. I cant say i ever tested one cold so not sure what you would expect to see,

Its already been said but treat it nicely, limit boost pressure and she will be right. I wouldnt go winding 20psi into it and expecting it run 11's as its just not going to happen.

Yeh sounds like a tired engine

Mine got comp tested few months back @ 160psi even across each cylinder

160psi across all cylinders? really? is this on a brand new motor?

i rarely see compression tests show over 155psi on all cylinders. the best ive seen has at least a 3psi variance between cylinders.

My R32 GTR has an R33 RB26 in it, all cylinders were between 165-170 psi engine was warm, full throttle position and all plugs were out.

It is a stock standard engine, bought it from a wrecker with 88000 kms on it.

I used to get 150-155psi with stock engine.

260 poncams and a rebuild, it went to 125-130psi.

R32GTR

warm engine, plugs out, throttle open.

No more that 14psi between cylinders is fine, and stock engine compression limit is 128psi, and standard value is 177psi @300RPM.

From service manual.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...