Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, besides looks, not a whole heap. Its all about the size of the contact patch at the end of the day (in performance terms) and if you have the same width wheels in 17" and 18", there is not going to be any noticeable difference.

One thing to keep in mind though is that wider tires are generally easier to get for larger sized wheels, although tires for said wheels are usually much more expensive (for the decent stuff anyway).

LW.

I have 18"s now but would love to go back to 17"s. The ride is noticibly different and you can feel that extra inch of sidewall that goes missing.

Tires also are harder to find and a lot more expensive in 18"s. 17"s are also cheaper initially to buy.

I'm running 17x8's on my 200sx atm, last week i temporily put 18x7.5 on to see the difference. I honestly couldn't believe how bumpy it was with the 18's (i've got koni adjustables set on full firm) Car felt like it was skipping over every minor imperfection in the road.

I guess 18's would look more flashy, but when i see a import with expensive 17's i usually get the hint that it means business!

If you want quicker launches, and better fuel efficiency, go the 17"s, as the 18's will have a higher moment of inertia and take more power to get up to the same speed. this also works with 16"s vs 17"s and so on. it all depends on what you want to do, go fast or look good.

18x7.5 seem pretty skinny, i would think if you were after wheels that performed well as well as looked good, you would probably go for 8 or 9 inch wide wheels, especially for the rear.

I think a car with fat 17x9s looks a lot tougher than a car with 18x7.5. Plus tyres are heaps cheaper.

The only car I had that I ever changed rim diameter was my Aus spec R31. Went from 14 to 15 inch.

I didnt think it would make that much difference but hell was I wrong. The ride is a lot more harsh and would assume your suspension cops more of a beating as there is less tyre profile to absorb some of the shock.

i own an R33 GTS, i was going to swap the axles over to 5 stud to get some good racing 18s (the wheels i am after are only available as 18s in 5 stud). i have been toying with the idea of keeping the 4 stud and getting the 17x8 versions instead. after reading this i think the 17s sound a lot better but i will be doing a turbo upgrade/swap later on - will i need to move to 5 stud and GTSt LSD anyway? in which case i'll just get the 5 stud 17s :rofl:

For a 33, there's not much need to go bigger than 17 x 8 simply because they have a good contact patch, is relatively cheap and they fill out the wheel wells fine.

Same for the 32.

The 34 does seem to look better with 18" rims.

T.

Hell yer .:rofl:

Also at the same time.. I thought by having slightly wider rear wheel will give slightly better tracktion? Since the gtst/gts25t/gtt are all rear wheel drive and all. :D Correct me if I'm wrong of course. :)

Well over the last week I have asked people left, right and centre (owners/tyre salesman/this forum/suspensionexperts) which way to go....

The core of it is... if you got the cash go the 18x8 and 18x9.

I drove both 17's and 18's this week on the same suspension set up (standard) and the ride is hardly different... after all it's just 5mm of side wall difference. I guess the real difference would be around tuning the suspension to suit the wheel size. Sports cars are full of comromise, this is just another one.

lwells 's post was on the mark... it's all about the contact patch.

Cheers

PB8

Rim size and how it performs really depends on the application and how they're set up, Formula 1 cars run 13's yet seem to go ok... don't ya think... They basically use the sidewall as suspension and run VERY hard suspension components to compensate... its down to personal taste and what it is your after, looks or performance and how you tune your suspension to match

18;s dont cost too much more than 17's... but you will take it in the arse with tire prices..... I dont know what 17" rubber goes for these days, but a few weeks ago got a nail through the sidewall on the 350z.. 1x18" tire cost $500 :(

If it was $350 bucks the difference for a new set of 18's (with tyres), which way would you go? I can't see the ride being that much worse as it's only going from a 245 to a 240 anyway.

Cheers

PB8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...