Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have a set of tien coilovers in my r33 gtst theyve always been stiff since i got the car. I dont realy know to much obout coilovers but is there a way to soften them up? i know for a fact there is no dampner contril on it there just plain height adjustable coils. Also ive been told that they may be screwed from the previous owner having the car to low but at the same time people have told me that the spring rate is to stiff, like i said dont know much about coils if anywone could give me some useful info id be happy thanks =D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371919-stiff-shocks/
Share on other sites

piss them off and use bilstein shocks with kings/whiteline or eibach springs. get extra circlip grooves for height adjustment. Or have sleeves fitted to them (ie HSD sleeves) for full height adjustment.

even the basic BC BR coilovers will be better than your Teins (ride quality wise). no doubt your tein's are valved like shit and are probably tired, plus springs rates to suit a jap touge car (much like the Teins I've just filed under B for bin)

I even think Tein super streets are pretty average. I fitted some to a WRX I drove for around 6 months, okay but didnt feel sweet like bilsteins. I also drove a 33 gtst a while back, 4kg springs all round (what they come with) and car felt bouncy and wrong.

to answer your question they are not worth buggering around with unless they are top of the line Tein's, then getting someone like Race Pace to tweak them would be a good option but if they are just HR's or HA's or what ever not worth it IMO.

Cheers, Jack

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371919-stiff-shocks/#findComment-5929814
Share on other sites

If they're not leaking you could think about throwing some softer springs at them and resetting the height to something sensible, but you may then have too much dampening for the spring rate.

Probably better to get a new set. Spring rate is very important. Find out what rate your current springs are (check the sticky, not sure if its still active tho) to give you some perspective on what to go for. Or else find someone with, say, 5 or 6kg front/4kg rear in a brand you can afford and see if you like them.

The bounciness in the ones you tried could have been stuffed shocks or ride height too low causing bottoming out on the bump stops, so if you can, find another 4/4 to try.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371919-stiff-shocks/#findComment-5930949
Share on other sites

interesting how you got so many responses, ive been struggling with my teins for ages, tossing up wether to get rid of them or change springs, mine are HA and damper adjustable, obviously the springs are very stiff.

Ive decided with mine that i will just put up with a little bouncing here and there, ive set the damper to what i think is ok, dam good on a perfect road, but bit uncomfortable on a rough road, and dangerous on a rough fast road taking corners..

but id rather put that money toward a gt30 than stuff around buying more coilovers, they can be bearable if you can adjust the damper , definitely no good at the drags lol..

ive found they are better when the car is lower rather than higher, the spring is longer if its lower.. correct me if im wrong but thats where ive found it to be best..

if you were in brissy i could show you how mine handles.. but if you cant adjust damper then it could be bit hopeless.

Edited by SliverS2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371919-stiff-shocks/#findComment-5932285
Share on other sites

Before you dump your shocks go to a Tein dealer and get a price to have them revalved (if in fact it is the shocks that are the problem and not your springs). A proper suspension place should be able to work out the spring rates and tell you if they are too hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371919-stiff-shocks/#findComment-5932751
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...