Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gauge Faces

ermi

By ermi,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

My one was done by a forum trader on here from back in the day. Was the best looking option other than paying big dollar for the Nismo one. Simply replaced the paper discs so to speak and required a little bit of soldering to get the 300kmh cluster to work.

post-35676-0-69660000-1311590784_thumb.jpg

You may have seen this one around because they sold like hotcakes! From memory they were under $200.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371966-r33-gauge-faces/#findComment-5932243
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Have a look on eBay, there is at least one bloke on there who does them. I wanted to get them for my 34 so he tried making some up but they failed miserably because of the shape. R33 gauges are flat so they are dead easy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371966-r33-gauge-faces/#findComment-5932299
Share on other sites
ermi Collaborator

ermi

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks guys.

As much as i would like a nismo cluster i don't think ill be able to afford one for a while :/

Ive been looking around on ebay and the reason i asked is ive seen these white face inserts on ebay. However they require the needles to be removed to be installed and i figure that would throw the calibration of the cluster out of whack.

Seems like a lot of screwing around but it is a cheaper option would be interesting to see if anyone has tried to put a set in. I'm not game to just in case i screw it up and have no cluster :S

PM-R33, Does that trader still do them?

Edited by ermi
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371966-r33-gauge-faces/#findComment-5934707
Share on other sites
Offtap33 Enthusiast

Offtap33

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys.

As much as i would like a nismo cluster i don't think ill be able to afford one for a while :/

Ive been looking around on ebay and the reason i asked is ive seen these white face inserts on ebay. However they require the needles to be removed to be installed and i figure that would throw the calibration of the cluster out of whack.

Seems like a lot of screwing around but it is a cheaper option would be interesting to see if anyone has tried to put a set in. I'm not game to just in case i screw it up and have no cluster :S

PM-R33, Does that trader still do them?

Hey mate i i stalled the nismo cluster in mine at it was very simple unbolt and uncoil then simply re clip re bolt, however for the other face you are after my brother did this I'n his Gtst 33 and said it was rather easy,i can't really help much more sry but he said once the needle was removed it could only go on one way, so just be carefull and take ya time,also you can bye the white face cluster pretty cheap of eBay to, sry couldn't help more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371966-r33-gauge-faces/#findComment-5934785
Share on other sites
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys.

As much as i would like a nismo cluster i don't think ill be able to afford one for a while :/

Ive been looking around on ebay and the reason i asked is ive seen these white face inserts on ebay. However they require the needles to be removed to be installed and i figure that would throw the calibration of the cluster out of whack.

Seems like a lot of screwing around but it is a cheaper option would be interesting to see if anyone has tried to put a set in. I'm not game to just in case i screw it up and have no cluster :S

PM-R33, Does that trader still do them?

Nah the trader isn't around any more. This is going back like 4 years.

Mine was done by removing all the needles and also resoldering the speedo to recalibrate it to 300kmh. It really wasn't that hard. Personally I find all the ones on ebay to look like ass - they just look cheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371966-r33-gauge-faces/#findComment-5934814
Share on other sites
PhilKenSebben Community Regular

PhilKenSebben

Posted
Posted

I have a set lying around somewhere in my shed if you want it. Got the box and everything. It's an Ebay set that required the removal of the needles to install but I simply left the front plastic cover off and set the speedo mid-drive.

It reads accurately (as far as I'm aware) but the needles seem to "stick" a little in certain places. It's only marginally, and maybe some silicone lubricant would fix it, I just didn't want them anymore. I just put in LED bulbs behind the original and I'm happy with that, the white luminous dials are just too blingish for my tastes.

And you can gradiate between a blue and green glow too, if that sort of shit floats your boat. PM me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371966-r33-gauge-faces/#findComment-5950120
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...