Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had read that somewhere, but couldn't justify the price for a street car, vs some spacers and bolts that cost me nothing.

Yep, I hear you.

I can get these for far less than RRP if you ever decide you want them.

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I machined up some spacers (just a thick washer really), you could use a stack of washers if you really had to. If you want I could make you some spacers out of ally, and get the bolts for you. pm if you want it.

No worries, I do the H/D Links for $135 a pair; bar prices I'm happy to PM.

Is it worth my time throwing together a fresh group buy?

If we can get 5 people to confirm their interest; I'll get one together.

Prices would be increased possibly $10-$15 per bar over my original 2011 Group buy prices.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/372067-c34-stagea-sway-bar-group-buy/

I think I spoke to you at the Putty Road cruise regarding this and was too lazy/busy to follow up. :(

Looking at sway bars for the V35 but not sure on what to go with. Factory, it has a 34mm front and 24mm rear. Considering that I can't see any larger sizes, not sure what the benefits would be?

If there are benefits, then I'd be interested in joining a GB considering if all things line up :)

I think I spoke to you at the Putty Road cruise regarding this and was too lazy/busy to follow up. :(

Looking at sway bars for the V35 but not sure on what to go with. Factory, it has a 34mm front and 24mm rear. Considering that I can't see any larger sizes, not sure what the benefits would be?

If there are benefits, then I'd be interested in joining a GB considering if all things line up :)

Hi Tony, I do remember having a chat actually!

Don't forget the OEM bars are hollow; so going to the 32mm solid front & 20mm solid rear is a huge increase in roll stiffness.

Yours I can do as a one off anytime; so when you are ready mate.

Hi Tony, I do remember having a chat actually!

Don't forget the OEM bars are hollow; so going to the 32mm solid front & 20mm solid rear is a huge increase in roll stiffness.

Yours I can do as a one off anytime; so when you are ready mate.

Of course you remember the dark guy in a SAU QLD polo rolling in a N16 Pulsar! :P

I was looking at one of the companies in the states and they had the same sizes as factory - must be solid then. Can you acquire these, and if so what dorras are we looking at? Feel free to PM me if required :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...