Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

would there be any perceivable advantage to running larger cams with a rb25 turbo on my rb20. I know that tomei poncams give another 30 degrees and more lift, would this give more rapid spoolup and possibly more top end power as i belive that the standard cams are choking even the stock power output in the top end no-matter what boost you run.

Thoughts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37235-am-cams/
Share on other sites

Sydneykid has stated that stock RB26 cams are an excellent upgrade for RB20s, being longer duration and higher lift...

And I just happen to have a set for sale out of a low kms 1996 R33 GTR :)

PM me if you're interested. Will be a LOT cheaper than Tomei cams ($300 plus post)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37235-am-cams/#findComment-746423
Share on other sites

As for RB26 cams they fit RB20's, there is some benefit from adj pulleys as well. They do work beter if you also use the RB26 solid lifters to replace the RB20 Hydraulics. As for power increase, I have never done a bac kto back, but around 10 to 15 rwkw looks reasonable. That's max power increase but I think the average power increase would be more, maybe 20 to 25 rwkw.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37235-am-cams/#findComment-747371
Share on other sites

Overlap is the portion of the engines rotation for which the exhaust valve is still open right at the end of the exhaust stroke, and the intake valve is also open to give a head start to the incoming charge. The exhaust gas is whistling out of the exhaust port at the same time the intake charge is starting to trickle past the intake valve. Lots of overlap works great at high rpm because more intake charge manages to cram itself into the cylinder, but lots of overlap will also make the engine run badly at low rpm, as exhaust gas manages to make its way back up the intake manifold, diluting the incoming air/fuel charge, and depositing soot on the intake runners, carburetor, etc. If you have more than about 40-50 degrees of overlap, you're looking at something more like a race cam than a street cam.

Lobe centre angle, on the other hand, is the number of degrees between the point where the intake valve is at maximum lift and the point where the exhaust valve is at maximum lift.

The two angles are related - for a given lobe design, as the LCA gets smaller, the overlap gets larger. Smaller degree LCA's usually give you lots of low rpm torque, but not as much high-rpm power. Larger-degree LCA's give you lots of high rpm power, but poor low-rpm torque.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37235-am-cams/#findComment-749437
Share on other sites

Coincidentally, the very latest HPI (arrived in last night's mail) has a bit of a discussion on the various Nissan cam designs. The specs can be found on Tomei's website at www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html

A slight adjustment to Merli's explanation - the difference between the max lift of the inlet and exhaust lobes is often referred to as LSA (Lobe Separation Angle), because there is also another LCA (Lobe Centreline Angle), which is the point (in crankshaft degrees) of maximum lift of the lobe, and is generally the midpoint of the duration. LSA is half the difference in LCAs.

Julian Edgar's "21st Century Performance" has a good explanation of all the terms in camshaft design (despite him getting it wrong about the duration and Ex-close values for a RB26DETT).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37235-am-cams/#findComment-749706
Share on other sites

Some excellent explanations of cam terms chaps. The only thing I can add is to say that the amount of overlap a turbo engine can tolerate has more to do with how much total exhaust back pressure there is than anything else.

So if you run a stock turbo with small exhaust turbine and stock exhaust system, do not try to run too much valve overlap or exhaust reversion will kill power everywhere.

With a larger turbo you can run more aggressive cams. But it will be more peaky.

The worst thing you can do is overcam your engine. so big turbo big cam, little turbo little cam is the way to go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37235-am-cams/#findComment-749813
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...