Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all!!

Put some 18x10's on my R32 today and they are scrubbing quite violently haha, looking for someone to roll the inner lip flat, and maybe a slight pull also.. The guards are perfectly standard, and don't appear to have any bog or rust!!

After a good price but someone that wont destroy the paint work! Any recommendations and prices would be sweet!

Cheers, Tobbie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372370-need-my-guards-rolled/
Share on other sites

If your r32 has standard paint, with a roll and stretch it will crack... no matter what you do. You'll be doing well to get 18x10's not to scrub on stock guard (with a roll push) r32 without stretching tyres etc.

Go see Marty at mobile mechanics, he has a guard roller-

Cheers

Justin

If your r32 has standard paint, with a roll and stretch it will crack... no matter what you do. You'll be doing well to get 18x10's not to scrub on stock guard (with a roll push) r32 without stretching tyres etc.

Go see Marty at mobile mechanics, he has a guard roller-

Cheers

Justin

That depends purely on the offset, ive got 18x9.5 +35 Vertec's under my 32 with 265s and all i did was roll the lip flat (resulting in cracked paint) and mine never scrub =) Not sure on who to roll the gaurds though as i always do mine the dodgy way and crack the paint, usually because i need it done in a hurry worship.gif

Edited by DanielH

That depends purely on the offset, ive got 18x9.5 +35 Vertec's under my 32 with 265s and all i did was roll the lip flat (resulting in cracked paint) and mine never scrub =) Not sure on who to roll the gaurds though as i always do mine the dodgy way and crack the paint, usually because i need it done in a hurry worship.gif

On the fron too?

Hey buddy, it was re-sprayed in 2004 i think, but one side was only done 12 months ago, hoping it doesn't crack, I think i have someone to do it now who is an actual bodywork's so he can re-spray if it cracks through!! Its running 18x10 +22 on the rear, with a 235/40 tyre stretched onto it.. fitment is sweet just eating the very outside wall of the tyre when going over small bumps :s it would be fine with a little bit of camber, but that inner lip is still standard so i doubt it would scrub half as much if it was rolled flat, and then i'm going to have it flared a bit so as i can go a little lower also :P I'll try and post up some pics when i'm done!!

na 8.5 +15 on the front with 235s

yeah thought so.

Most body works will hammer the lip over. Go see Marty, then if the paint cracks then take it to a bodyworks.

I did the guards on my stagea not long ago, as long as you heat the paint slowly and to the right temp, then you have a better chance of it not cracking with newer paint.

The paint on my 32 gts-t cracked, although Ben did them.

You wont be able to push the guards correctly with a guard roller, you'll more than likely strip the threads on the roller. Try using a bottle jack and blocks to push the guard.

You wont be able to push the guards correctly with a guard roller, you'll more than likely strip the threads on the roller. Try using a bottle jack and blocks to push the guard.

What do you mean push the guards "correctly"?

You can flare most Nissans 50+mm with a guard roller. You don't need blocks or hammers or anything apart from a good quality roller.

To be honest newer paint is almost always more of a pain in the arse as it hasn't been applied as well as genuine Nissan paint or the paint quality itself isn't as good. Every car is different.

tobs I can roll your guards for $55/corner or $70/corner for a flare. Most bodyworks charge $200+ per corner and generally don't heat the paint so they can make more money out of repairing and respraying your quarter panel.

Ben

if you thimk it might crack run a razor blade round the lip only clear deep this will stop the paint cracking and chipping! the reason that resprayed cars crack easier is they use a fast curring hardener and it sets harder. Factory use a slow or normal hardener and blast bake.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...