Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just need some advice i just got a r32 gtr 93 modle in very good shape pretty sure hasnt been wounded back 108000 original kz

i got a full service and got all the oils changed, and we noticed the engine oil was very thick n gooey we changed it to a 10-40 turbolight.

after we changed it i drove about 30kz and noticed a knocking noice at about 3000rvs, i herd it when we first got the car but very faint and just though it was the engine as a rb26 normly makes a ticking noice.

it got worse the next day i took it to 3 workshops and they arnt 100% sure what it is most ov them said its the lifters but im just scared it something worse, i changed the oil to a 20-50 and that quieted it abit but the noice is still there.

Has anyone had this problem and if use could please share info with me.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372715-please-help/
Share on other sites

If three workshops that heard the noise didnt know, then your chance of getting a good response from people that cant hear the noise isnt good. Were the workshops familiar with RB26s?

Are you familiar with how other GTRs sound? Lifters and injectors do make a lot of ticking noise, but since you said knocking it sounds like you're hearing something else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372715-please-help/#findComment-5944532
Share on other sites

Rb26 does not have lifters

If the noise occurs around 2500rpm it will be a worn out big end bearing and unfortunately this means u need a rebuild or a 2nd hand motor.

U could just get the crank tidied up and a new set of bearings but for the effort it takes to do that u may aswell rebuild or replace the motor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372715-please-help/#findComment-5944768
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...