Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Mod "path"

jasevr4

By jasevr4,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Pretty much right.

Also the ECU controls the gearbox, throttle and accessories, so you can't just ditch it for a standalone without going to a cable throttle like Scotty has tried.

AFAIK the VQ25DET was only used in the NM35, so people aren't in a mad rush to develop piggy backs etc for them.

I'm convinced that Haltech would be a better choice... if it was guaranteed to work. But there are no guarantees, so go with what you know works!

nope.

its speaks with another Ecu that controls the GB lol

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

stock intercooler and injectors wont handle 200kw i dont think. especially injectors

I plan to test that injector theory... just as soon as my com cable rolls up! :rant:

Not sure if Scott's is the only proven suction pipe Aaron, Dolphin might disagree, but good luck getting one :P

I saw pics of an HKS replacement for the vertical suction pipe and the rubber bend... Well at least it had HKS stamped on it, but I have only seen it once.

Also, TEPS make a very nice suction pipe but you have to supply them with your car.

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

I plan to test that injector theory... just as soon as my com cable rolls up! :rant:

I saw pics of an HKS replacement for the vertical suction pipe and the rubber bend... Well at least it had HKS stamped on it, but I have only seen it once.

Also, TEPS make a very nice suction pipe but you have to supply them with your car.

i thought scott had the com cable?

ArdentEagle Contributor

ArdentEagle

Posted
Posted

Just an FYI on the Haltech....I had the Interceptor......I battled with it for a good six months......in the end I took it off and my car made more power with the stock ECU.

Jus so you know.....even though you have a piggyback(any piggyback) the standard ECU will try to tune around it....and quite often succeed!

There in lies the problem for me. No one wants to touch an Emanage over here, it's like a dirty word but no one has had any real success with anything else. I don't know what to do, if I get the exhaust done I want to make full use of it and at the very least get the mods we discussed before. I'm happy with an extra 50 awkw but nothing less.

He did mention something about the possibility of a cable throttle so perhaps he was planning on bypassing the ecu all together. That sounds like a hell of a lot more work than $2500 worth including the new engine management system though. I wonder if Cihan has some base maps I could purchase and get a tuner over here to start from that platform.

Arrgghhh

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

There in lies the problem for me. No one wants to touch an Emanage over here, it's like a dirty word but no one has had any real success with anything else. I don't know what to do, if I get the exhaust done I want to make full use of it and at the very least get the mods we discussed before. I'm happy with an extra 50 awkw but nothing less.

He did mention something about the possibility of a cable throttle so perhaps he was planning on bypassing the ecu all together. That sounds like a hell of a lot more work than $2500 worth including the new engine management system though. I wonder if Cihan has some base maps I could purchase and get a tuner over here to start from that platform.

Arrgghhh

Don't you have an HKS tuner over there?

HKS Fcon iS will do (at least) as much as the eManage Ultimate and can be picked up pretty cheap (have seen them on eBay for $300-350).

Problem is that the ECU will still try to tune around it.

On the plus side, the ECU will also accommodate and self tune for basic mods such as exhaust, runner spacer and suction pipe (although the SP will max out the AFM)

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

On the plus side, the ECU will also accommodate and self tune for basic mods such as exhaust, runner spacer and suction pipe (although the SP will max out the AFM)

There is a way around that with good design :whistling: .

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

So when are you making them for others?

Haha. I figured if I spent the 50hrs it took me to make it actually working in my business, I could have paid someone to build me something really nice. I dunno, maybe totally rebuilt my engine or a manual gearbox conversion lol.

Happy to release the patent & put up a rough guide for others, but I'm so over it there's no way anyone would want to pay enough to entice me to make another one :wacko: .

Would be a good idea if I made sure I can get it running exactly how I like first. Otherwise this one may be going cheap for someone wanting to install an Emanage....

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

is there a way you can setup that extra opening to be adjustable? just in case its too large or something

Anything is possible but there's still limited room in there, and just how much time/effort/money does one want to go to?

In reality it would be easier to just use an interceptor to adjust the voltages (hence AFR's) back to what you want than try to do it mechanically. I'd imagine that would be a fairly coarse sort of adjustment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      Fender flare widths across front/back of car

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • GTSBoy
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • dbm7
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...