Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was advised at one point to go find a local spring works (yellow pages) and they can make up anything you need ;)

was all too hard for me though

I was going to suggest that. Pretty much any spring that fits in there without falling over will do the trick anyway. And shimming them as already suggested will raise the pressure somewhat. Its all very easy.

Lol at lending ya car. I sure as hell wouldn't. I only let the missus take it anywhere.

I don't have a problem with mates driving my car, after all it's just a car. I often take my car to the skidpan where I let my mates have a go, it's something I think everyone who has an appreciation of cars should experience. But perhaps not at 400rwhp when they are used to driving beaten up Honda Civics, etc.

I don't have a problem with mates driving my car, after all it's just a car. I often take my car to the skidpan where I let my mates have a go, it's something I think everyone who has an appreciation of cars should experience. But perhaps not at 400rwhp when they are used to driving beaten up Honda Civics, etc.

On the skid pan wouldn't be as bad cos you got your eye on it and also they aren't on the road with the opportunity to see how fast it goes or something stupid.

I loaned my skyline once and it came back with 7800 rpm on the hand controller and 170 kph. Plus the clutch stunk and I'm sure that's why it is slipping now. I loaned my commodore once as well and the guy got a speeding ticket and ripped the front bumper off on a kerb and blew a hole in the radiator which only happened at the time from revving the crap out of it.

You say its just a car but for me it is months of work and saving. If someone really appreciates a car they can work their arse off and save their money and get their own like most people do. But hey that's just me biggrin.gif

On the skid pan wouldn't be as bad cos you got your eye on it and also they aren't on the road with the opportunity to see how fast it goes or something stupid.

I loaned my skyline once and it came back with 7800 rpm on the hand controller and 170 kph. Plus the clutch stunk and I'm sure that's why it is slipping now. I loaned my commodore once as well and the guy got a speeding ticket and ripped the front bumper off on a kerb and blew a hole in the radiator which only happened at the time from revving the crap out of it.

You say its just a car but for me it is months of work and saving. If someone really appreciates a car they can work their arse off and save their money and get their own like most people do. But hey that's just me biggrin.gif

Yeh I don't just approach people on the street and hand them the keys lol :P I have a close group of friends, would trust them with far more than my car. They could easily get their own, but it's just not something they want. They enjoy driving it but they see the headaches I have with it sometimes (like the hot start issue) and it just isn't for them. Or they have a different taste in cars, eg my mate has a '78 Escort that he is building. We all have our own tastes, mine just happens to be set up for track work :P

Anyway, didn't mean to go so off topic whistling.gif

Edited by Hanaldo

I hear ya. It's good to have mates you can trust like that. I've only been in perth for ten months so I don't know many people here. On topic now, why don't you try putting some big washers under your 7 psi spring and seeing how much it raises the boost by. If your car isn't set up for the gate yet we can try it out on my car sometime.

on this topic, does anyone know if the tomei 270 8.8mm lift cams would be okay for a stock rb25 hydro and stock springs?

This is an external wastegate thread, were discussing spring pressure in the gate and target boost.

Your probably looking for another thread, however I think the duration has nothing to do with how well it will work as its more the lift. IMHO the stock springs are shit to begin with, I would ditch them in a mad hurry.

This is an external wastegate thread, were discussing spring pressure in the gate and target boost.

Your probably looking for another thread, however I think the duration has nothing to do with how well it will work as its more the lift. IMHO the stock springs are shit to begin with, I would ditch them in a mad hurry.

or better yet lets just ditch the whole engine for one with a toyota badge...right?

Hanaldo: speaking with Sean from Allstar I was told to downgrade my spring, had a 7 and 14 in my 48 progate to just the 14 and use my avcr to run what ever high boost, aiming for 25psi, reason being the ecu can pull boost out if something is overheating or going wrong,

I was under the impression of getting the spring pressure as close to the target boost as possible too,

it depends on your setup, with internal gate and an actuator getting one close to your target boost is more important than with external gate as with external you can use both ports to hold the gate shut until a few psi before your target boost.

i say see how you go with your current spring and if its not enough you can always change it later.

ive got some Turbosmart wastegate springs laying around is interested in them, one has yellow paint (largest), one has red (medium) and another i think has orange (small) paint sprayed on it

im not sure what psi they are, they have been sitting in my room for about 4 years and have some surface rust on them but nothing major

ive got some Turbosmart wastegate springs laying around is interested in them, one has yellow paint (largest), one has red (medium) and another i think has orange (small) paint sprayed on it

im not sure what psi they are, they have been sitting in my room for about 4 years and have some surface rust on them but nothing major

Haha well those sound like they are from a Pro-Gate or Power-Gate, so they wouldn't fit my application. The red one might fit the Comp-Gate, is it red and brown or red and black? In case you're interested, the yellow one would be a 14psi middle spring, and the red one would be either an 11psi middle spring or a 12psi outer spring. If the red one is smaller than the yellow one then it's probably from a gate like mine.

I saw a spring at work today which looks like it would fit. The bloke said I can have it soon when he replaces it with a new one soon. It is very hard to compress by hand. I succeeded in compressing it about 3mm. I'm keen to try it. Just by the feel of it I'd say it is good for 20 psi or more by itself

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...