Jump to content
SAU Community

How Much Boost?

Room42

By Room42,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

I have read a few threads but most realize what a waste of time it is and find better things to do like attach a big single or go to the pub..

i dont think anyones saying dont do it, I'm sure we would all love to see results no matter how bad they may be..

If you got nothing better to do then knock yourself out but while your saying it wont cost anything your talking of building a stroker 3lt, Im pretty sure that will cost something and the most power i think you would make is a laggy 500-600hp at the absolute max if the turbos dont blow up first which most people think they will.. thats alot of f**kin around for the result when you could simply buy a Big single like mafia said which is proven to make over 500hp on a stock 2.5, you could have it up and running in a weekend if your good unlike this monster of a project which will take you so long that Im betting you give up on it before it ever gets finished because you realize how much effort it takes just to be lame..Im sure over the next few months we will get excuses like my missus had a baby and I smashed the car and I dropped a turbo on my babies head blah blah blah it will never happen..

Anyway GL..I eagerly anticipate your results ;)

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

If it sucks it sucks. I'll only be mildly disappointed if it does. I was kind of thinking 10 to 12 psi each at about 4000 to 4500. Haha... I just asked the missus " What happens if I do this twin turbo setup and it sucks arse"? She says straight up in a no nonsense tone "Buy a bigger turbo". :thumbsup: Hey why do people think that a less stressed turbo is more likely to blow?

EDIT: No parts yet. :angry:

Edited by Room42
Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok blokes. Line up your I told ya so's. :blush: The twin setup is still going ahead but not with the stock turbo's. After consideration I've decided to use better quality turbo's. Bearing in mind that it will be on the rb25 first then swapping to a relatively stock rb25/30 (7000 rpm max) what are your suggestions for turbo choice? I'll buy new turbo's etc and as this will cost more I'd rather have it work the first time. It should be more suitable for the 25/30 than the 25. Also I have a couple of T3 flanges for the manifold so take that into consideration. Lemme have it :thanks:

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It doesn't have to be twins. Just seemed like a good idea cos the stock turbo's are so cheap and I can put it together for stuff all. Also I have the head flange and 2 T3 flanges paid for and arriving soon. I could always suck it up and eat my words and "look like a cock" but like I said its not hard to sort out and I already have most of the bits on the way or at work. I dont care about being different. Read my second sentence again.

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well I have 2 turbo's in the shed. Its just a matter of putting it all together when the flanges arrive. The reason I kinda shied away from the nissan ones is cos they're so old that the chra's will be rooted.

EDIT: The money is basically spent. Only gotta sort out some intake piping.

Edited by Room42
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

Well I have 2 turbo's in the shed. Its just a matter of putting it all together when the flanges arrive. The reason I kinda shied away from the nissan ones is cos they're so old that the chra's will be rooted.

EDIT: The money is basically spent. Only gotta sort out some intake piping.

just do it...for pride and lols if nothing else.. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...