Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title states it's ideling @2000rmp then intermittently drops to 1400rpm for a split second then back to 2000rpm.( is like the computer is cutting ignition to try control it)

Things i have done

replaced all vaccume lines

All inlet gaskets

All spark plugs

Replaced coils

Changed injectors

Changed idel control

Done nissan consult no errors shown

Pluged exhaust and turbos and pressure tested it with 25 psi no leaks anywhere

Drive fine when above 2500rpm or on boost

Anyone had a simmilar problem, any ideas?

Will post a link later of a video of what it does

sound like injector cut is coming in....the ecu sees via throttle sensor that the throttle is closed and its seeing the rpm exceeding what it deems to be a normal idle speed so it pulls the power to the injectors.....you have a vac leak or BAC valve is letting too much air past

If you unplug the idle control valve electric plug does the idle return to normal, this is what my car is doing, 1500 rpm idle just started doing it one day, I unplugged the electrical plug and it idles as normal. I still need to look into this drama

Have you checked that the TPS is giving a "throttle closed" signal to the ECU. This will be indicated by the ohms between pins 1&2 (I think, could be 2&3) is 0, and "not 0" when throttle cracked open.

Is the brake booster leaking? Remove all the larger hoses from the equation and plug them, it sounds like a decent leak anyway, cant be too hard to find...

there are no leaks as stated in the op ( did a pressure test with the engine not running and put 25psi in it, NO LEAKS)

If one of the throttles were open more than the others could it make it do this?

sound like injector cut is coming in....the ecu sees via throttle sensor that the throttle is closed and its seeing the rpm exceeding what it deems to be a normal idle speed so it pulls the power to the injectors.....you have a vac leak or BAC valve is letting too much air past

I agree with what you're saying about the injector cut, there is no vac leaks anymore as they have been sorted and tested with 25psi, is bac valve the same as the idle control under the plenum? or is it something different?

If you unplug the idle control valve electric plug does the idle return to normal, this is what my car is doing, 1500 rpm idle just started doing it one day, I unplugged the electrical plug and it idles as normal. I still need to look into this drama

idle don't change if u unplug it, that was one of the first things i tried!

thanks anyway

Incorrectly adjusted throttle plates can cause this. The reason the engine is revving and cutting back is called Overrun. The ECU sees closed throttle and over 1300-1400rpm so it thinks it's in decel. It cuts injection as it normally would on decel. Then the idle drops far enough that it comes past it's overrun threshhold and goes back to high idle, once again, repeating itself.

You can try backing off the single throttle stop adjuster on the main throttle link above the plenum. Make small adjustments as this should never really need to be touched. Another way to check it is to undo the 4 mounting bolts on the T bar and force the plates shut by hand. If the idle drops then you need to adjust the main throttle stop. If it's just one throttle plate that needs adjusting, they have an adjusting screw and 8mm locking nut beside the throttle plate on each pair. Be careful and only do this if you know what you are doing.

There may be no air leaks but air is certainly leaking. All it has to do is get past the throttle plates somehow

Incorrectly adjusted throttle plates can cause this. The reason the engine is revving and cutting back is called Overrun. The ECU sees closed throttle and over 1300-1400rpm so it thinks it's in decel. It cuts injection as it normally would on decel. Then the idle drops far enough that it comes past it's overrun threshhold and goes back to high idle, once again, repeating itself.

You can try backing off the single throttle stop adjuster on the main throttle link above the plenum. Make small adjustments as this should never really need to be touched. Another way to check it is to undo the 4 mounting bolts on the T bar and force the plates shut by hand. If the idle drops then you need to adjust the main throttle stop. If it's just one throttle plate that needs adjusting, they have an adjusting screw and 8mm locking nut beside the throttle plate on each pair. Be careful and only do this if you know what you are doing.

There may be no air leaks but air is certainly leaking. All it has to do is get past the throttle plates somehow

i was thinking that air is leaking past the throttle on cyl 1 & 2, will check the idle control one more time & then if its still no better i'll adjust the stop on the throttle plate itself. will let u know if i stff it up :)

there are no leaks as stated in the op ( did a pressure test with the engine not running and put 25psi in it, NO LEAKS)

If one of the throttles were open more than the others could it make it do this?

OK, I READ THE OP JUST FINE MATE...

Do you know there is a one way valve in the booster line that wont let boost past, but will allow air to flow back to the engine? If the booster is split it would cause you issue, I thought it was weird it wasn't leaking with pressure but you obviously have a big vac leak.

What about the PCV?

Good luck with it anyway.

OK, I READ THE OP JUST FINE MATE...

Do you know there is a one way valve in the booster line that wont let boost past, but will allow air to flow back to the engine? If the booster is split it would cause you issue, I thought it was weird it wasn't leaking with pressure but you obviously have a big vac leak.

What about the PCV?

Good luck with it anyway.

I have disconnected the boosters and blocked them off, same goes for the pcv.

Unfortunately made no difference

Thanks for the input everyone

PROBLEM FIXED!!!!

Big thanx to Dan from Elite Racing for supplying a set of R34 Throttles today,

fitted them up this arvo & it runs Beautifully just need to set the idle a lil lower as it is around 1100rpm but is alot better than 2000rpm, drives alot smoother, no miss or hunt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...