Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To stop less risk of hose failure, has any body used less cooling system hoses on the RB20DET, ( only for a warm climate)

I am thinking of removing the hoses on the inlet manifold, throttle butterfly and the cooling system bleed hoses.

( the cooling system bleeding could be done by jacking the front of the car and bleeding by the radiator cap, which would be the highest point )

The hoses to stay (not removed) are the heater hoses, turbo return hose and radiator hoses

Are there any other hoses that could be removed?

Any ideas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373373-rb20-cooling-system/
Share on other sites

I should have explained as i am doing an engine rebuild, and as all the hoses are over 20 years old and 200,000K, they should be replaced, i thought maybe, just replace the least amount to do the job.

Also, would not heating the inlet manifold and the throttle body be an advantage, keeping the inlet air cooler ?

If it was an advantage, then Nissan would not have designed the engine to work with them.

The primary reason the hoses fail is if the engine has not been correctly treated with engine coolant.

If it was an advantage, then Nissan would not have designed the engine to work with them.

The primary reason the hoses fail is if the engine has not been correctly treated with engine coolant.

Now, both of those statements are just silly. Nissan heated the TB to stop icing problems when using the engines in a cold climate. There are very few places in Australia where you need to retain it. The very first thing I do to any RB is bypass the hose around the TB.

And the failure of coolant hoses (especially the ones under the inlet manifold) is just from age and heat. Doesn't matter if you've been using coolant made from de-ionised angel urine and the squeezings of virgin glycols, the hoses will still shit themselves eventually.

To the OP. Unless you know the function of all those little coolant hoses, especially the ones under the inlet manifold, don't bypass them, just replace them with new ones. There's a lot of moving of coolant from one part of the engine to the other that is done by those hoses, and some of it is quite necessary. New ones will last >15 years.

Now, both of those statements are just silly. Nissan heated the TB to stop icing problems when using the engines in a cold climate. There are very few places in Australia where you need to retain it. The very first thing I do to any RB is bypass the hose around the TB.

And the failure of coolant hoses (especially the ones under the inlet manifold) is just from age and heat. Doesn't matter if you've been using coolant made from de-ionised angel urine and the squeezings of virgin glycols, the hoses will still shit themselves eventually.

To the OP. Unless you know the function of all those little coolant hoses, especially the ones under the inlet manifold, don't bypass them, just replace them with new ones. There's a lot of moving of coolant from one part of the engine to the other that is done by those hoses, and some of it is quite necessary. New ones will last >15 years.

. Nissan heated the TB to stop icing problems when using the engines in a cold climate. There are very few places in Australia where you need to retain it. The very first thing I do to any RB is bypass the hose around the TB.

I also believe it helps keep the IAT at a relatively consistent temperature for the stock ECU. The ECU is assuming the air is around X temp and will fuel and time for it. (seeing as RB25's dont have stock IAT if you dont include the AFM)

From what i have seen anyway.

Thanks GTSBOY

It always did seem like a maze under the inlet manifolds on the RB20DET and RB26DETT until i had the engines out.

It now looks a lot more simple and logical to workout which hoses are required to make it all work.

And as you said some of those hoses are only needed in very cold climates to stop icing up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...