Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry if this question has been asked a thousand times before!

I currently have a V36 Skyline Coupe and need something a bit more practical.

If I sold the V at market value $40K + then I could buy a very boring and uninteresting car from any dealership.

I really can not bear to part with the V and this leaves me on a tight budget fro a practical but more interesting car.

I have been looking on carsales.com at the Stagea's that are available and have already got the bug.

Would be so cool to have an M35 and be able to keep my V36.

My budget will be around the $15k range plus minus a few K.

Any advice on what to avoid and what to look out for would be appreciated. Are there any stand out models or features that are nice to have?

Looking forward to some feedback.

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373607-want-to-buy-a-stagea/
Share on other sites

You can pick up a M35 (VQ25det) Stagea for around 15k... or import a decent one ;)

EDIT: Quick search mate http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/369487-m35-stagea-advice/

Edited by iamhe77

Your budget will get you into a decent one, but you may need to search for a while to get one with some "must have" features.

One of the things that ends up costing heaps more to buy later is a body kit. Most common on the M35 is the aero kit, mostly with fog lights built in to lower bar, & it's worth holding out for one.

General consensus is that it looks pretty ordinary (crap?) without it.

The other thing that doesn't cost more (often less) is to find one without the BOSE system. If these "play up" there is less options for replacement.

And it's nice to get the pop up screen, like in your V no doubt, so you can add some entertainment etc.

I'm not sure your budget will stretch to one with leather & sunroofs (if that's even your thing) unless there's a private seller keen to move theirs.

If you have any plans to improve your car (& it's addictive when you find out how well they go with a few mods) then you may want to allow a few $ for later on :thumbsup: .

Happy hunting.

Hey Chris, just in the process of getting a m35 rs 4 into compliance Definitely get a aero kit (inc rear wing) harder and more expensive later on Also make sure its not a cold pack unless its been checked throughly before it leaves jap land Rust issues (cold pack has red fog light instead instead of two clear) Had a pearl white with aero and black near perfect leather interior. Rust around diffs hidden Pop up screen and leons digital tuner. Plus 200 for language change There's a couple of brokers in melbourne for imports. Mine landed approx 13k complianced. Jap dealer car. Brought mine for a family wagon and some fun Check out tradecarview. to get an idea on price. Then 2.5' for complaincing and freight charges on a ro ro..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...