Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys i've got an xf throttle body on my plenum with the auto rb30 TPS (yes i've done the metal plate mod) when the throttle is wide open it isn't getting 100% reading on my hand controller. when its closed it reads around 2-4 when wide open only goes to around 31. i've even tried adjusting the TPS by undoing the screws & moving it in different positions but still wont get a good reading... kinda seem like the D shaft from the throttle body that spins the TPS to give the reading isn't spinning round enough...

could i have the wrong xf throttle body?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373687-xf-throttle-body-tps-question/
Share on other sites

If you have a greddy mani, a vh45 90mm tb bolts straight on.

You can bolt the stock tps to it aswell.

J.

i was just looking at some of them. i dont have a greddy mani tho. does the fx throttle body have the same 4 bolt pattern on each of them???

Ok I've put my mates stock rb30 throttle body & tps on to check if it's works correctly but when i set the tps to 0 then open the throttle fully it's only reading up to 50% on my wolf hand controller. Is there any way to set 0 when it shut then 100 when it's WOT full throttle??? Because I can't think of anything else to do...

Cheers

Ok I've put my mates stock rb30 throttle body & tps on to check if it's works correctly but when i set the tps to 0 then open the throttle fully it's only reading up to 50% on my wolf hand controller. Is there any way to set 0 when it shut then 100 when it's WOT full throttle??? Because I can't think of anything else to do...

Cheers

Yeah as guilt just posted you need to calibrate the tps travel and voltage to the ecu's end points.

So pretty much my tuner hasn't set it right from the start when I got it tuned yeah?

I called them last week & they said I need to get the tps working correctly before they can tune it, but it's never worked right after I got it tuned anyways...

Can they defiantly calibrate it via the ecu? In other words set 0 then 100 yeah???

Cheers guys

Yes you can set the limits in the ECU, eg flatten the accelerator and see what volts it gives, this is your max volts, then close the throttle and see what the volts are, this is your min voltage eg your limits. Should be very easy to do this.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...