Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys i've got an xf throttle body on my plenum with the auto rb30 TPS (yes i've done the metal plate mod) when the throttle is wide open it isn't getting 100% reading on my hand controller. when its closed it reads around 2-4 when wide open only goes to around 31. i've even tried adjusting the TPS by undoing the screws & moving it in different positions but still wont get a good reading... kinda seem like the D shaft from the throttle body that spins the TPS to give the reading isn't spinning round enough...

could i have the wrong xf throttle body?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373687-xf-throttle-body-tps-question/
Share on other sites

If you have a greddy mani, a vh45 90mm tb bolts straight on.

You can bolt the stock tps to it aswell.

J.

i was just looking at some of them. i dont have a greddy mani tho. does the fx throttle body have the same 4 bolt pattern on each of them???

Ok I've put my mates stock rb30 throttle body & tps on to check if it's works correctly but when i set the tps to 0 then open the throttle fully it's only reading up to 50% on my wolf hand controller. Is there any way to set 0 when it shut then 100 when it's WOT full throttle??? Because I can't think of anything else to do...

Cheers

Ok I've put my mates stock rb30 throttle body & tps on to check if it's works correctly but when i set the tps to 0 then open the throttle fully it's only reading up to 50% on my wolf hand controller. Is there any way to set 0 when it shut then 100 when it's WOT full throttle??? Because I can't think of anything else to do...

Cheers

Yeah as guilt just posted you need to calibrate the tps travel and voltage to the ecu's end points.

So pretty much my tuner hasn't set it right from the start when I got it tuned yeah?

I called them last week & they said I need to get the tps working correctly before they can tune it, but it's never worked right after I got it tuned anyways...

Can they defiantly calibrate it via the ecu? In other words set 0 then 100 yeah???

Cheers guys

Yes you can set the limits in the ECU, eg flatten the accelerator and see what volts it gives, this is your max volts, then close the throttle and see what the volts are, this is your min voltage eg your limits. Should be very easy to do this.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...