Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im not a retard i know a tune will make a diffrence as my car was tuned by jeff from speed lab.

The car made 271rwkw but iv now changed the exhuast becuase the old one was a 3inch dump. 2.5inch cat and 3 and 2.5inch pipes from cat back -.- a shit exhuast basically

now iv got a turbo back 3.5inch. Car feels much nicer n quicker to spool. But i notice people with 300rwkw and over still use 3inch turbo back. Will i get much of a change in power with a tune or sweet f**k all becuase 3inch is fine?

R33 s2

highflowed no idea on specs but it made 271 on 15-16psi

cheers

Yeah check AFR's to make sure its all safe and will be good to see the difference

2.5" sections of exhaust running that boost and power would have been restricting so you will probably pull a little more power, wether the tune needs touching or not :)

I just swapped out my HKS Hi-Power Silent (lol) exhaust for a Trust PEII, Reason being, getting a cert, and its 103db. Needs to be 95.

The HKS is 3.75", and the Trust is 3". Since the Trust was put on, the cars running richer at idle and stalling occasionally. And is noticeably slower. So id say a light touch up on the tune will help.

btw what the average price on highflows? Im thinking the previous owner went to the most expensive place to get mine

Can vary massively, why do you think that? Costs the same for a highflow that makes 220kw or 320kw usually.

Edited by Rolls

Cheers for the replys, il borrow a mates afr gauge, and see how its reading.

Oh just a few mates spend round 1000 or so and mine was done by ats costing 2400 not including oil lines n all that... Figured you could buy a new garret for that amount or hks.

Ah, well thats good then. Stupid question im sure. Any idea on safe psi? Even just as a genral for highflows

PSI means nothing, it is all about airflow. Eg 5psi on a T51r is going to be pushing more airflow than a stock turbo at 12psi and hence make more torque, bigger combustion pressures etc.

I'm assuming you have an rb25 if so I'd say keep the power under 300kw, tune it very conservatively (rich and easy on timing) and if maintained properly should last you ages.

Things that will kill a motor are poor tune (detonation killing pistons and bearings), oil issues eg not enough oil and drifting = oil starvation, high revs for a long time filling the head with oil, limiter bashing causing oil pump failure.

Outright torque is almost never the reason why a stock RB has failed. So to answer the question, keep pushing more boost in until you make the power you want or it stops making power (limit of the turbo) or you run into detonation problems from the intake charge being too hot. If it is making 270kw on 15psi, then I'd say it could probably go to 20-22psi fairly easily, probably be making more than 300kw then though.

Got a dyno sheet? Or know when the turbo comes on full boost? Might make it easier to figure out how much power it could make and on what boost, ultimately we will be guessing though ask ATP what they think the turbo is good for.

18-20psi should be a good limit to aim for though, just make sure you insist the tune is safe, who are you getting to tune it?

Edited by Rolls

I take it pretty easy. So i imagine itl last. Even after a few hours of hills driving knock sensor never goes above 20.

Rev limiter is set to 7200rpm

il have to take a look when it makes full boost next time im out so il update thread. What gear should i be testing this from?

Iv got a dyno sheet il post up tomoz. Just moved out and after looking at elec bill this tune will be further away then i thought :(

fromwhat i remember on the dyno it was only reved to 6200rpm not sure why it was stoped as the power was massivley climbing

thanks for the info, this forums a millions times better then the rest

I take it pretty easy. So i imagine itl last. Even after a few hours of hills driving knock sensor never goes above 20.

Rev limiter is set to 7200rpm

il have to take a look when it makes full boost next time im out so il update thread. What gear should i be testing this from?

Iv got a dyno sheet il post up tomoz. Just moved out and after looking at elec bill this tune will be further away then i thought :(

fromwhat i remember on the dyno it was only reved to 6200rpm not sure why it was stoped as the power was massivley climbing

thanks for the info, this forums a millions times better then the rest

Best way would be on the freeway load it up in 3rd or 4th and see when it reaches full boost then, dyno is best though.

Oh and if i could id like to take it back to jeff if i can find him, il put in new head gasket at same time

Oh so its an oldschool remap? or PFC if you have the knock counter? Don't change the boost until you can get it on a dyno with a decent tuner, I had a remap done by Jeff ages ago but I've heard he is in Melb now and not tuning so much. Perhaps try one of the big workshops here, boostworx, willall, Jaustech, even get hold of the Nistune guys they are great.

Pfc, nah i wont be changing anything. For now this is the daily.

Yea he vanished, seemd he was to popular.

When turbo tune tried tuning this car they could only get 240rwkw out of it... Shows how good jeff was.

When i canil start looking around for places or roadtrip to melbs ;) and some track work

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...