Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my old man is moving to australia at the end of the year and is planning to bring his +4 morgan and triumph tr3 over with him,

whats the go with how to get them over here to brisbane and who are the best companies to do so? they are both LHD one is in running condition the other needs an overhaul.

any help would be great.

cheers

riley

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373957-importing-from-canada/
Share on other sites

Both will be fine to import, and can also be registered LHD anywhere in Australia. If you're old man wants help with it, tell him to drop me a line.

he's right about the triumph, but the morgan yes its an old car but its the only hand made( completely) car in the world even though the year model is in the 60's it was manufactured in 1994.

the morgans chassis is also made of wood lol is that going to be a problem to import?

and do u have a rough price it would cost to ship them both at the same time? like a bundle deal

+1 it is flat as at the moment ( Oz market is not that much better.)

just found out that its only a problem to import raw wood, so the morgan should be fine ( minus the obvious clean it needs before shipping)

iron chef any idea what the price would be, and is it cheaper to import two than just one?

if you import 2 cars at the same time there is potential to save a couple hundred dollars here n there.. but ultimately no it isn't cheaper because most of it is government charges and labour...

as for the wood thing - please get clued up on modified pre 89 imports.

it basically is there to stop people like hot rodders from bringing in:

Model T Ford w/ chopped roof and 15in wide rear wheels with a custom tub rear, with an LS7 engine conversion... that has been built onto the chassis of a chrysler PT cruiser in 2007.

^^^ it was to close the loophole that gave potential importers the ability to import "pre 89" cars with them being pre 89 purely on face value.

however in the wake... it's affected an entire market of people unable to import their cars. I should also note that import approval is still given the "yes" or "no" approval by the same people and REALISTICALLY not much has changed.

however you mentioned something something something built the car out of wood because you thought it was cool to be Armish in 1994 - :P

in that example its best to speak to australias dept of transport about it.. just in case. would hate to see youre claptraption be declined import approval due to no homework being done..

..that's all i was saying :)

just found out that its only a problem to import raw wood, so the morgan should be fine ( minus the obvious clean it needs before shipping)

iron chef any idea what the price would be, and is it cheaper to import two than just one?

Shoot me an email mate (see my sig) and we'll get you some prices. The wood won't be a problem. To answer your last question, probably not ;)

if you import 2 cars at the same time there is potential to save a couple hundred dollars here n there.. but ultimately no it isn't cheaper because most of it is government charges and labour...

as for the wood thing - please get clued up on modified pre 89 imports.

it basically is there to stop people like hot rodders from bringing in:

Model T Ford w/ chopped roof and 15in wide rear wheels with a custom tub rear, with an LS7 engine conversion... that has been built onto the chassis of a chrysler PT cruiser in 2007.

^^^ it was to close the loophole that gave potential importers the ability to import "pre 89" cars with them being pre 89 purely on face value.

however in the wake... it's affected an entire market of people unable to import their cars. I should also note that import approval is still given the "yes" or "no" approval by the same people and REALISTICALLY not much has changed.

however you mentioned something something something built the car out of wood because you thought it was cool to be Armish in 1994 - :P

in that example its best to speak to australias dept of transport about it.. just in case. would hate to see youre claptraption be declined import approval due to no homework being done..

..that's all i was saying :)

ok lets clear sumthin up.......the amish were cool in 1994 and still are.....i wish i was amish.....churnin butter and stuff...................and the chassis is wood cause its lighter and easier to replace than steel. dont worry i hang shit to my old man about owning a car made of wood. thanks for the info. and iron chef ill get the details and try to get my old man to sort a date and stuff out with u

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha that's wholesome as! Looks like we're raising a generation of female rev heads and classic shit box owners 🤣
    • Haha nice, my kids are the same two older boys say cars are boring while younger girls like them. My 1.5yo daughter watches D1GP on YouTube with me, holding a toy plate for steering wheel and making brmm brmm noises
    • Took the car out to see if it still starts, sure does. Daughter wanted to for a spin too, she loves it when it doses, also cries when we come home and try to take her out of the baby seat 🥲  I actually put the seat in for her brother, but he absolutely hates the shitbox. Anyhow, so after looking at real boats, and transoms, bait tanks etc. and scupper valves attached to them, I came up with ideas to improve the catch can. The primary goal was to stop the interior smelling like vented catch can shit when the windows are down OR when the HVAC is not recirculated. My catch can has a sump drain/feed at the bottom, 2x cam cover inlets, 1x outlet back to the intake pipe and 1x vent at the top. The initial theory was at idle, and off boost there would be just enough suction from the intake pipe (pre turbo) to pull back any smelly shit from the catch can before it could escape out of the vent (which does have 1x layer of foam and a fine mesh screen on top). It kind of works, however on hot days, the motor is breathing more than the suction provided from the intake pipe (pre turbo) and there's a bit of vapours escaping (not a bit amount, but enough to piss me off). I could have just sealed off the vent, however it would mean each time I take it to the track or decide to drive it with a bit of enthusiasm, I would need to remove the seal. To address this, using scupper valve idea, I used a 3mm sheet of rubber and cut essentially a valve that requires a bit of pressure to crack open and vent. Took the shit box for a drive today, came back and parked the car. No heavy stench, great success ☺️ I still would swap for a F80 LCI or W204 2012+ C63 AMG, if anyone is keen 😅
    • I'm with Kinkstaah on this one. Do it once, do it right. So much better for your mental health. The sneaky thing about the fuel pump wiring is that it will work perfectly fine for the longest time. Until that one moment when it decides to shit the bed. And it's not worth the paranoia from not trusting the car anymore. At least other mechanical issues announce themselves by developing some noise or other warning. If you have the funds, I'd suggest to go with a good kit like Frenchys and get the work done by a trustworthy shop. No regrets there. The only downside to the Frenchys kit on the Stagea/R32 GTR is that their fuel level sender is not on point. But looks like the R33 kit maintains the factory sender so should not be an issue. This is what the botched setup on my Stagea looked like before it stopped working. It had melted its way quite a distance down. Glad it didn't burn down the car.   Some links I came across when I looked for solutions: Radium sells a DIY wiring kit that looks promising. I didn't buy it though, I let my workshop decide on wiring. https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/radium-diy-fuel-pump-hard-wiring-kit-17-0031 https://www.radiumauto.com/DIY-Fuel-Pump-Wiring-Kit-P368.aspx   You can also get cheap replacements for the locking ring depending on how mangled it looks: https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/Nissan-17343-79900-Fuel-Tank-Outlet-Locking-Ring-for-Nissan-S14-S15-BNR32-R33-R34-AWC34 There are tools for unscrewing it as well so you don't have to abuse it with a screwdriver and mallet. The Frenchys one is expensive but I'm sure there are cheaper ones.
×
×
  • Create New...