Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

these guys are exactly right - You need to tighten the cam down a bit at a time to not put to much stress at one end etc. I should have put more detail.

Do it in stages, like a turn or two for each cap.

if you watch when you are tightening you can see which caps are under weight (The valve pushing back) and you can easily work out the correct way to pull the cam down in a level fashion.

it would be a real c#nt buggering an expensive poncam lol, even more of a bitch if it snapped while running and ruining an entire engine, and all of your hard work.

Just take it easy and be REALLY patient. It does take a while.

The manual will lead you astray, so use your own common sense.

Rotate your crank slightly passed TDC so there's no chance of pushing valves into No6.

Cams like to move to their "happy" spot while they're going down, that's why you do the job off TDC.

With the crank suitably passed TDC, you can test rotate your cams too.

Lube up the cam journals.

Caps are all marked/numbered but it pays to double check everything.

Pulling down the caps, you'll quickly see some caps have no load, others are working hard.

Watch you don't get carried away with the easy ones.

A mate can spot you along the cam for an even pull down.

Have your mate spot you across the caps too so you don't pull one side down more than the other.

With all caps down but not torqued, remove No1 cap and do the sealant. Don't go crazy with sealant or you'll block the oil drain back slots.

Torque down your caps.

Take it easy with all these puny bolts/nuts.

The manual will lead you astray, so use your own common sense.

Rotate your crank slightly passed TDC so there's no chance of pushing valves into No6.

Cams like to move to their "happy" spot while they're going down, that's why you do the job off TDC.

With the crank suitably passed TDC, you can test rotate your cams too.

Lube up the cam journals.

Caps are all marked/numbered but it pays to double check everything.

Pulling down the caps, you'll quickly see some caps have no load, others are working hard.

Watch you don't get carried away with the easy ones.

A mate can spot you along the cam for an even pull down.

Have your mate spot you across the caps too so you don't pull one side down more than the other.

With all caps down but not torqued, remove No1 cap and do the sealant. Don't go crazy with sealant or you'll block the oil drain back slots.

Torque down your caps.

Take it easy with all these puny bolts/nuts.

thanks for the info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...