Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys currently getting my motor built at moment it will be ready to get tunes soon when its back in and i was wondering cause im new to wa where is the best place to get it tuned a reputable place ?

its a r32 gtr by the way

please pm me

thanks guys

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hi there, best place in town is allstars in malaga, they do a good tune and get plenty of good feed back. im getn my r33 gts done there in the next few weeks.

Big question is who built the engine ? Whenever tuning a new engine there is alot of reluctance, cause when something goes wrong, as is often the case, the tuner doesn't want to get blamed for a poorly built engine, and vice versa.

Also, what ECU have you got, turbs etc ?

Please post results in the SAUWA Member area :thumbsup:

If the bad boy works, I'll be telling every one don't u worry,

Quick parts list

Bottom end built by me with

Nissan bearing

Spool rods

CP pistons 86.5

Nitto pump

Trust sump extension

Head consists of

Tomie -

Pro cams 270x10.8

Type B springs and retainer

Bronze valve

Ferrea +1mm valves

Tomie gaskets

1.2 HG

1000cc xpurts

GT 35 .82 vband

3.5" dump

6 boost and 48mm pro gate with screamer

040 intake and 2x 044 externals all direct wired

3lt surge tank

3lt baffled catch can with rear head drain,

Think I covered everything and all issues RB related

Let's hope it all works

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

MOTOR BUILD UPDATE, ALL BUILT AND FINISHED GOING BACK IN CAR NOW !!! maybee some things i missed out !!

sard 700 cc injectors

brand new garret 2860-5 turbos with all new gaskets

hks exhaust gasket and tomei metal intake gaskets/throttle bodies

acl race series full engine bearing kit, along with king bearings unknown what they were for !

shim head gaskit race series (metal)

N1 water pump

tomei UMEDA oil pump

tomei 260 deg cams

custom built extended sump and pickup with trap door setup in sump (MADE BY RED R RACING )

rebuilt front diff and preload reset

engine balance

machine crankshaft

ross harmonic balencer

cp forged pistons, 30thou over size from original bore

eagle conrods

gates performace timing kit

replace crankshaft oil galleries with screw in plugs

deck block

recon head ,full set of valve guides,3 angle valve cut ,set of shim tappets to cams supplied

aftermarket valve springs

custom work (drill and weld up oil galleries in head advised by red r racing)

TOMIE Oil Feed Restrictors

TOMIE Sump Baffles

HKS Adjustable Cam Gears

ARP Mains + Head Studs

All New Hoses And Gaskets

Oil Relocation Kit + Cooler

alloy Radiator

new clutch built by (JIM BERRY RACE CLUTCHES QLD)

Nismo Airflow Meters

New O2 Sensors

trust 600x300x120mm Intercooler,

recent full rebuild on gearbox

running the nistune ecu with nismo afms

and a blitz i colour elect boost controller

will be interesting to see how much power i will make ,would anyone know an estimate on power figure ?

Thanks I bought these brand new turbs cause I blew one up originally when I had same turbs before not expecting motor to go and make a new stronger motor with more power so yeah I hope I can make some good power anyways was hoping for 600 but oh well ...

Thanks I bought these brand new turbs cause I blew one up originally when I had same turbs before not expecting motor to go and make a new stronger motor with more power so yeah I hope I can make some good power anyways was hoping for 600 but oh well ...

A mate with an RB28 running 26psi and e85 with big cams and a shit load of head work made 630rwhp, so with your setup on pump98, and similar boost I'd expect around 550rwhp thumbsup.gif

but thats really a guess whistling.gif

Make 500 easy, pending ignition and boost will indicate how far you want to go. Camshafts could be alittle bigger for some extra hp, I changed from 260's to 272's and noticed a mega difference top end. Either way, great street and all round setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...