Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Im really confused as to what turbo's i should put on my gtr 34. I would like to reach an easy 350awkw.

I have 700cc injectors, pon cams type b 260in 260ex, cam gears, power fc, exhaust, and n1 oil pump.

What is a nismo rs581 turbo? Are they any good? looking at getting them! or go with the Garrett 2860-5's .

Any help would be much appreciated.

Regards Ross

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374593-which-turbos-to-put-on-my-gtr34/
Share on other sites

-5 are what you want, those Nismo's are old tech stuff that will be laggier etc.

-5 are good for more like 380rwkw on a good setup, yet -7s and -9s are more 300kw material. Even 400rwkw is not out of the question for -5s :ph34r:

IBTL

Stock stroke?

Headwork?

If it's still stock capacity I think you would be better off with 9's and making a slightly lower figure. It's all good to say you want 'X' power, but when you get belted off the line by a much lower powered car you wont be happy!

2.8 to 3.0 with 5's yes

2.6... Not so much...

Having said that it does depend on what you want from the car.

T517Zs with 10cm rear, better quality, tighter tolerances, better response and same power as -5s, ask your tuner

What's the difference in terms of all the above but 8cm?

Ross, sent you a pm.

aim for better average power over a higher top end max rwkw

gt-ss or -7s would be better suited to make a quicker overall car

stay away from the nismo's they are older spec

and don't forget a fuel pump

Ye for the sake of 10-15rwkw, I'd get the smaller turbos every day off the week.

If you want me to take you for a run in my car Ross let me know as i have -5s

I did have -9s previously & for a street car i'd strongly recommend you get -9s.

i to am confused over these turbos, everyone one here says gtss's for standard engine.. but from memory they are not much good over 300kw... that seems abit crap considering my standard r34's are makin 270

also lag, might be a problem of the lights in a car with grip, but my silvia is useless in 1st and 2nd andyways, so i could not see it being that bad.. unless anyone has experience with -5's off and on throttle/ would be a problem for drift....

i just think is pretty damn dear to pay 3+k for turbos that are only goin to make and extra 30kw? not much headroom for when u get bored and want more power....

sorry for thread hijack...

I really don't know how people are still getting them confused with the capabilities. There is sooo much information...

-7s / R34 N1 = 300rwkw

-9s / GT-SS = 320-340rwkw

-5s = 370-400rwkw

-10s = 400rwkw+

It's not expensive to pay 3k when you think your stock turbo's, can & will lunch a motor if you lean on them too much. Whats cheaper? Turbos or a motor rebuild?

And it's not just about peak power either (of which your statement of only 30kw is wrong), its the midrange bonus you also get which the factory items lack.

So -9s will actually give you closer to 60-70rwkw up top - and MUCH more mid range whilst maintaining brilliant response, can't ask for anything more than that really and for 3k, it's the best value you'll get for a streeter. Add in some cam gears, exhaust, clutch & tune... The result is one mighty quick GTR around the street and occasional track visit.

Sorry but off the lights a Silvia isn't in the same league as a GTR. Even with 350-360rwkw I get almost full traction in 1st/2nd once the tyres have some heat.

Ash, not to step on your toes but I am honestly yet to see a wealth of 330kw -9s.

They definitely seem to be an up to 330kw affair but much more of an 'over 300'. There would be a magic recipe to doing it but its not what avg joe should expect when buying them.

I'm just throwing it out there... I think their good and that's what id get but id certainly stick to -5s for anyone dreaming of 350+

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...