Jump to content
SAU Community

Z32 Afm

smcqueen89

By smcqueen89,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Legionnaire Collaborator

Legionnaire

Posted
Posted

How do you know someone only used it for 6 months?

You don't.

AFM's are so cheap that it's just not worth the risk. They seem to only last 10yrs anyway so almost a consumable like a timing belt really. They certainly don't last the life of the car at all. AFM's are known to fail regularly.

A 2nd hand Z32 could be 5 years old for all you know, and belted around a bit. For the sake of a couple $, just get a new one.

Very true. 

Even having successfully bought 3 used ones that were perfectly normal to date, I would say go for a new one. There is no guarantee that a unit that was previously working fine will continue to do so for long. AFM's a very fine and precise piece of electronic equipment, it wears over time, dies from vibration and if it fails under load, ECU has no idea about actual engine load and returns wrong fuelling and spark data, so engine is at high risk of fatal leanout or ignition overadvance, which costs hell of a lot more than a coulple of saved $, so it's a false economy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374647-z32-afm/page/2/#findComment-5977965
Share on other sites
smcqueen89 Collaborator

smcqueen89

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i was think that when i was driving over to look at the afm.... how do i no if this is even goin to work on my car.... was it taken of the 300 in the first place and is it realy worth saving $200 not knowing these stuff..., i dont think so

a bit of the topic but does anyone no about a loom or somthing that has been made for a strait replacement of the afm plug to fit the skyline one... iv hurd it is hard to acualy find the plugs for the z32 afm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374647-z32-afm/page/2/#findComment-5977986
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

a bit of the topic but does anyone no about a loom or somthing that has been made for a strait replacement of the afm plug to fit the skyline one... iv hurd it is hard to acualy find the plugs for the z32 afm

Who told you that lol?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374647-z32-afm/page/2/#findComment-5978020
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26/30 build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • MBS206
      Nismo rear spats

      By MBS206 · Posted

      No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Butters
      Rb26/30 build

      By Butters · Posted

      Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26/30 build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • lilley's gtr
      Rb26/30 build

      By lilley's gtr · Posted

      I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...