Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so those of you who attended Kadina Show'n'Shine would remember what happened to Krishy's car. If you weren't there or were too drunk to remember, he took off, changed gears, and then the car just free revved in gear. Upon further inspection, you could see the tailshaft was spinning into the diff, but no drive coming out.

The diff, a Tomei 2 way 4.11, had been in the car for roughly 3 weeks, after being swapped into the place of the factory A-LSD unit found on some R33 GTS-t's.

With the car jacked up, the LH rear wheel would free spin by hand, and the RH rear wheel had a bit more resistance on it, and would also turn the tailshaft.

We drained out the oil, and saw nothing too major apart from some metal filings. Once out, the first thing we did was remove the cover, and much to our amazement, everything looked quite good and clean. Both of us were expecting to see major mechanical carnage.

We pulled the half shafts out the diff, to find the teeth from the LH side were shaven clean off, but only on the very end, almost like the shaft didnt go in far enough. When we pulled out the other side, it became evident that the 2 shafts were different. Both had 29 splines, and both were the same overall length, but the length of the 'middle portion' is different. I'm assuming this is not meant to be? It looks like the shaft from the LHS wasn't going far enough into the diff centre, and has simply sheared off. The diff centre appears to be fine and in working order, apart from the metal filings from the shaft.

post-50135-0-90705500-1313832412_thumb.jpg

LHS:

post-50135-0-75414700-1313832950_thumb.jpg

post-50135-0-46932500-1313833019_thumb.jpg

RHS:

post-50135-0-57075800-1313833037_thumb.jpg

post-50135-0-72898900-1313832968_thumb.jpg

Can anyone shed some light on this? It would be much appreciated :)

PS. If anyone knows how we can clear the metal filings out of the diff, that would be a great help too :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374658-diff-shenanigans/
Share on other sites

Thanks for chucking this thread up Dion. Really appreciate your help with this mate.

Yeah so as Dion has stated its pretty much looks like the 2 half shafts are off 2 different types and one not being long enough to engage into the center properly, which has caused it to sheer the teeth off. Everything else looks good. The working half shaft fits into either side and both sides seem to operate quiet well with that half shaft. All I now need is another half shaft that looks like the one out of the right hand side.

You said you pulled out an A-LSD.

Did you change the driveshafts as well? You know the A-LSD is about 25mm wider than a standard R200 diff. Is it possible the attached driveshaft actually pulled the half shaft out of the diff slightly?

Daniel the diff if from a non ALSD R33. The only things changed where the diff center to a tomei 2 way and the half shafts that do inside the diff. Everything else is still the same from my ALSD Car.

Daniel the diff if from a non ALSD R33. The only things changed where the diff center to a tomei 2 way and the half shafts that do inside the diff. Everything else is still the same from my ALSD Car.

Then refer to my original post. The driveshafts (CV's + shaft) will be shorter in the A-LSD car because the A-LSD diff is 25mm wider at least. Not 100% sure whether or not it will be a problem but you should check that the driveshafts aren't pulling back on the half shafts.

I could be wrong as I have never physically disassembled the A-LSD driveshafts and compared them to standard driveshafts. They may just slide further out of the tripod CV on the hub side, not sure.

You should also check the half shaft length vs the centre depth to see if maybe they didn't go all the way in or something. The tin shield should go almost all the way up against the seal. If it doesn't, then it may not be all the way home.

When you slot the LH half shaft into the diff when outside the car, pushed all the way in, it just free turns, and doesnt spin the diff. Whereas if you put the RH side half shaft onto the LH side of the diff it works fine.

Meaning, when just the half shafts are in play, the LH still doesnt go into the centre far enough.

It looks like the left shaft would never of gone all the way in. Where it steps out its further up the spline than the other one. And its longer. And it also has ground the last 5mm off the splines. The splines would of gone all the way to the end.

Have you put the right shaft into the left side to see if it goes in ok.

I would guess you need another shaft like the right one.

Hey Krishy were any of those shafts off my blown NA diff that I gave you? Maybe the installer used some of them

It looks like the left shaft would never of gone all the way in. Where it steps out its further up the spline than the other one. And its longer. And it also has ground the last 5mm off the splines. The splines would of gone all the way to the end.

Have you put the right shaft into the left side to see if it goes in ok.

I would guess you need another shaft like the right one.

Hey Krishy were any of those shafts off my blown NA diff that I gave you? Maybe the installer used some of them

Now as for that I cannot actually remember which one was from your diff and which one was from the new one that I bought. As there were many parts around the place and everything got mixed up.

So now I just need another half shaft that looks like the one that came out of the RHS, as that half shaft goes in both sides and can spin the diff without any problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...