Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plenty of work ahead but perhaps not as much as it looks from the photos :)

Cheap car!! and actually passed RWC pretty well straight away so that's a good start.

I'll let the pictures do the talking for now, plenty of info and work coming up in the following months.

IMG_0670.jpg

Is anyone missing their mailbox? I think its under the car!!!!

IMG_0669.jpg

IMG_0682.jpg

Do you think that the pink number plates bring out my eyes?

IMG_0688.jpg

IMG_0666.jpg

IMG_0667.jpg

IMG_0675.jpg

IMG_0672.jpg

IMG_0692.jpg

Replaced both tie rod ends straight off the bat, as one of them looked like this...

IMG_0696.jpg

And replaced the hub on the same side for good measure, just in case anything was bent/damaged, and because the bearing didn't feel 100%... unfortunately it was an ABS hub onto a car without ABS, so it was time for another trademark Sam-spec backyard fix :P Who ever would have thought of using a coke bottle lid to fix a problem......just imagine what you could do with an entire Mount Franklin bottle.....

IMG_0697.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375033-kats-r33-gtst-project/
Share on other sites

Car is officially roadworthy and registered :)

couple of things to sort out

drivers' door doesn't shut as nicely as it should, and the key doesn't work in the lock of the same door properly.

couple of interior plastic trims need replacing with non-broken ones :)

wheels need a bit of a balance

still doesn't make power properly all the time, needs some tuning love I think. Read somewhere R33s don't like Nistune so that's a shame; PowerFC maybe, given that a bigger turbo will be on the cards for later on?? don't know enough about this side of things.

wow.... what made you think this is the right section of the forums for this thread....

Ive seen them turn up in the wrong thread before but this is obtuse

interested to see how/where your build goes though

*sigh.

I reported the post immediately when I realised it was in the COMPLETELY wrong section of the forum. I don't usually make mistakes like this :( and apparently the moderators took their time moving it, as it still hasn't been moved.

Hmm..

The possibilities are endless.

Anyway thanks for the altogether useful and productive advice you have all given so far :D

so we swapped the HKS pod for a generic pod PLUS a FMIC with all piping!

WTF!!

Pretty keen to get stuck into building this thing properly, but first i think it really needs a tune or SOMETHING since it uses about 540000L / 100km.

Sometime around Christmas we will strip the entire car and prep it for painting, inside and out. Panel shop can take care of the actual colour laying for us :)

Anyway thanks for the altogether useful and productive advice you have all given so far :D

don't mind the nerds, you DID post in the gaming section after all :nyaanyaa:

My first car was an r33 that had exactly the same colour scheme factory two tone silver & grey, ahh the memories

  • 2 weeks later...

so I'm having trouble chasing down the source of a misfire / spark breakdown..

Idles fine

Coasting down in gear misfires

Under part or full throttle misfires at random so hard the R&R must kick in or something because it's like the power just drops away for a moment now and then

I've changed the O2 sensor just behind the turbo, there looks to be another one in the rear of the catalytic convertor but I don't know what the deal is with that..? Is this a common issue?

There's also an earth strap just hanging free from the floorpan right next to the catalytic convertor... where is this supposed to go?

The earth strap in the engine bay from the motor to the strut tower is a piece of shit, I need to replace this because it's rubbish and I'm not happy with it at all.

Other than this issue the car's going alright :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...