Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I have an rb25det with blown head gasket and has been sitting for a while and is still in the car. I am about to pull the head off and do the job but is it possible for me to "flush" the engine in order to get rid of the oil milkshake that is all through the bottom end????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375134-rb25-engine-flush/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Any coolant that has gone past the pistons in the oil galleries etc will be in the sump. So draining the sump will suffice unless i have missed something? After running the engine at operating temp for a while it will burn off any remaining coolant/vapour too.

Umm if its been sitting for a while, there would now be rust in 1 or more cylinders, as soon as you start it, depending on how bad it is, you could damage the rings/pistons and bores.

Or has it simply blow a water to oil part of the gasket?

DO NOT run any kind of degreaser through your engine. :domokun: Not kero or diesel or anything. If the water has diluted and mixed with the oil (milky) then there is a chance that the bottom end bearings are rooted. You should have a look at them and while you are there you can wipe it all down and assemble it all properly with assembly lube. Clean out your oil pump and prime it properly. FFS putting degreaser through an engine then just dumping new oil in it and hoping for the best is stupid. But by all means to the blokes that suggested it, the next time you do an oil change drop 10 litres of diesel through your motor then put the oil in after. See how long it lasts. And yes there could be some rust buildup. To the op, I'm not having a go at you, just make sure you do it properly.

you may not want to do the diesel thing, it does have the potential to end badly. if its been sitting around for ages you could strip the engine down and get it chemically cleaned by an engine builder.

This. It will end badly. :rant:

DO NOT run any kind of degreaser through your engine. :domokun: Not kero or diesel or anything. If the water has diluted and mixed with the oil (milky) then there is a chance that the bottom end bearings are rooted. You should have a look at them and while you are there you can wipe it all down and assemble it all properly with assembly lube. Clean out your oil pump and prime it properly. FFS putting degreaser through an engine then just dumping new oil in it and hoping for the best is stupid. But by all means to the blokes that suggested it, the next time you do an oil change drop 10 litres of diesel through your motor then put the oil in after. See how long it lasts. And yes there could be some rust buildup. To the op, I'm not having a go at you, just make sure you do it properly.

you obviously havnt tried it . . ive done it many times with numerous motors over the years and havnt had ANY fail nor has it affected the longevity of said motors, the amount of crap that ive gotten out of engines is unbelievable and when you have done it properly you dont contaminate your fresh clean oil with built up crap in your bottom end

you obviously havnt tried it . . ive done it many times with numerous motors over the years and havnt had ANY fail nor has it affected the longevity of said motors, the amount of crap that ive gotten out of engines is unbelievable and when you have done it properly you dont contaminate your fresh clean oil with built up crap in your bottom end

Nor would I ever. I guess when I went to tafe years ago to do my mechanics apprenticeship, all the stuff they taught me about engine building was a load of crap. And all the blokes I worked with just guessed their way through engine rebuilds. The fact that you would admit you have done this is ridiculous. Next time you assemble an engine use petrol for assembly lube. Geez I'm wasting my words... :rolleyes:

Edited by Room42

Nor would I ever. I guess when I went to tafe years ago to do my mechanics apprenticeship, all the stuff they taught me about engine building was a load of crap. And all the blokes I worked with just guessed their way through engine rebuilds. The fact that you would admit you have done this is ridiculous. Next time you assemble an engine use petrol for assembly lube. Geez I'm wasting my words... :rolleyes:

geez im glad my mind isnt as closed as yours. . .just because you have done an a mechanics apprenticeship (did you pass?)doesnt mean you know it all, BTW i have built a number of "A" series , "L" series and RB motors with no issues at all :thumbsup:

Nor would I ever. I guess when I went to tafe years ago to do my mechanics apprenticeship, all the stuff they taught me about engine building was a load of crap. And all the blokes I worked with just guessed their way through engine rebuilds. The fact that you would admit you have done this is ridiculous. Next time you assemble an engine use petrol for assembly lube. Geez I'm wasting my words... :rolleyes:

DO you honestly think you are the only mechanic on the forum, get off your high horse. Whenever i rebuild a diesel, i run kero through it for 15 min 1500rpm free rev, obviously you dont rebuild diesels otherwise you would do the same.

To the OP i would drain the oil, and refill with 50%cheap oil, 50%kero and run it for a few min then drain it while it is hot. If you are worried about the bores being rusty, then you are up for a rebuild anyway, so might as well give it a go..

DO you honestly think you are the only mechanic on the forum, get off your high horse. Whenever i rebuild a diesel, i run kero through it for 15 min 1500rpm free rev, obviously you dont rebuild diesels otherwise you would do the same.

To the OP i would drain the oil, and refill with 50%cheap oil, 50%kero and run it for a few min then drain it while it is hot. If you are worried about the bores being rusty, then you are up for a rebuild anyway, so might as well give it a go..

^^this

Nor would I ever. I guess when I went to tafe years ago to do my mechanics apprenticeship, all the stuff they taught me about engine building was a load of crap. And all the blokes I worked with just guessed their way through engine rebuilds. The fact that you would admit you have done this is ridiculous. Next time you assemble an engine use petrol for assembly lube. Geez I'm wasting my words... :rolleyes:

mongggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg!

geez im glad my mind isnt as closed as yours. . .just because you have done an a mechanics apprenticeship (did you pass?)doesnt mean you know it all, BTW i have built a number of "A" series , "L" series and RB motors with no issues at all :thumbsup:

DO you honestly think you are the only mechanic on the forum, get off your high horse. Whenever i rebuild a diesel, i run kero through it for 15 min 1500rpm free rev, obviously you dont rebuild diesels otherwise you would do the same.

To the OP i would drain the oil, and refill with 50%cheap oil, 50%kero and run it for a few min then drain it while it is hot. If you are worried about the bores being rusty, then you are up for a rebuild anyway, so might as well give it a go..

more than one way to skin a cat buddy.

LOL!

watch out everyone hes a Tafe man!

Tafe graduates run this bitch yahear!!

ill say it again you close minded fool.

"there is more than one way to skin a cat"

and apparently your skills in the one form of cat skinning you know seem to be lacking due to your education.

or did you want to twin turbo this topic? :nyaanyaa:

watch out everyone hes a Tafe man!

Tafe graduates run this bitch yahear!!

ill say it again you close minded fool.

"there is more than one way to skin a cat"

and apparently your skills in the one form of cat skinning you know seem to be lacking due to your education.

or did you want to twin turbo this topic? :nyaanyaa:

Coming from a kid that resorts to name calling means about 2 thirds of stuff all. P.s the head flange only got here on Friday.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...