Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I bought an upgraded gearbox for my car when i smashed 3rd on the std box (last turn at morgan park....should have shifted sooner). The seller of the upgraded gearbox at the time had purchased an unused turnkey race gtr and was told that the gearset was OS giken and was virtually brand new.

I have recently had the box out as i'm in the midst of doing some major upgrades but can't find any markings on the gearset at all. Visually it has larger than standard gears (guessing each gear is around 5mm larger but yet to measure), a standard input shaft and series 3 sychro's. It's handled 320awkw on the street/track/strip without failure where the std box broke when the car had around 260awkw. Gearing felt near enough to std.

Could it be an OS but with a std input shaft? Another guess was route 6 but some argue that even a route 6 has markings on the gearset.

Any thoughts? Trying to work out what it is to determine if it will handle my new mods (400awkw+) and to work out a value for it if i decide to sell.

thanks in advance

Edited by tk80
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375138-upgraded-33-gtr-gearbox/
Share on other sites

Ratio's of a OS Box with stock diffs are (8000RPM).

1st=87

2nd=138

3rd= 190

4th= standard (as it is 1:1)

5th depends if you have a stock ratio or not.

I have a few photo's of when I put my box together that I will throw up for you tonight. I'm 99% sure there was a 'OS Giken' engraving on the heavy duty input shaft, none on the gears themselves. This is stretching my memory though.

thanks mate...will take a look at the pics.

didn't think my gears were that long though. only going from memory but i thought 1st was 70-75, 2nd 120-130, 3rd 180ish and i never revved out 4th to know.

Edit:

just looked up what the std gearset is good for @ 8,000 rpm...

1st = 73

2nd = 122

3rd = 181

4th = 236

5th = 313

Looks like whatever i've got is standard ratio or very close to it....so what could it be?

Edited by tk80

yeah sounds like a standard box to me too sadly. so many fkers have sold supposed "OS boxes" which turn out to be standard. :(

the fact that it's holding 320kw is no indication either. plenty of stock boxes running 350kw+ for years and years. most likely your first box braking at 260kw you just got unlucky.

Mr Beer Baron

you're a very knowledgable guy when it comes to this stuff. are there ANY upgraded gearsets that use standard ratios? because everyone that has seen it opened up say it's larger than std (these are people that know gearboxes).

Edited by tk80

Mr Beer Baron

you're a very knowledgable guy when it comes to this stuff. are there ANY upgraded gearsets that use standard ratios? because everyone that has seen it opened up say it's larger than std (these are people that know gearboxes).

well there have been a few 'boutique' makers over the years. most aussie and euro stuff use straight cut gears and/or dog engagement. most of the jap stuff are helical gears and still synchro.

generally all the jap boxes have a much shorter 1st gear as back when people were upgrading GTR boxes a lot in the 90s and early 2000s it was for drag racing which was huge in japan. the super tall first gear in 32/33 boxes is pretty useless with decent power so they nearly all shorten it down massively.

route6 make a gearset but to the best of my memory it also had a shorter 1st gear and then close spacing between 1-3 (ratio wise).

AGY made their SS690 boxes with the synchro upgrades and I 'think' they used to make one with standard ratios (but it was a long time ago).

OS obviously don't make standard ratio gearsets.

it's possible they were custom gears.

best bet is measure then and see if they really are 5mm bigger (I assume you mean wider). 5mm (2.5mm each side) is pretty hard to spot unless you have a standard one beside it to compare to so maybe the people who looked at yours just thought it was bigger?

it's quite likely I reckon that it's just a series 3 box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..   
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...