Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

if this is happening to you: post-36975-0-95260700-1314502383_thumb.jpg

then you need to replace the little heater core at the back of your dash as it has started leaking. My signs were: strong smell of coolant in the cabin, front windscreen fogging up, loss of coolant in the reservoir and then at the end of it my passenger foot well started leaking coolant.

As I have already removed my aircon line because it split years ago, I didn't need to worry about disconnecting the aircon lines... if you do this, you will loose all the gas in your aircon.

Tools: phillips heads, flat heads, maybe pliers, spanner set, possibly socket set

Should be about an hour to get it out..

1. Remove Glove box - There are 4 screws at the top and 2 plastic tabs at the bottom of it where it hinges to remove.

post-36975-0-70939300-1314502605_thumb.jpg post-36975-0-64857800-1314502608_thumb.jpg

2. Remove plastic backing to glove box which hides aircon evaporator thingy - I think there is just 2 screws and then a decent tug should do.

post-36975-0-73577000-1314502706_thumb.jpg

3. This is what you should see, this is the aircon evaporator, we need to remove it.

post-36975-0-21777200-1314502767_thumb.jpg

There are 4 screws holding it in, plus 3 electrical plugs, plus the 2 aircon lines(mine was already removed)

post-36975-0-07964300-1314503118_thumb.jpg

post-36975-0-84180100-1314504173_thumb.jpg

4. Once all those are disconnected, give it a good smooth tug and this is what you should see:

post-36975-0-30403000-1314503278_thumb.jpg post-36975-0-05497000-1314503298_thumb.jpg

Now we need to get back here

post-36975-0-67719200-1314503335_thumb.jpg

5. But before you do, disconnect the lines going to the heater core or coolant will spill all over you

post-36975-0-52522600-1314503501_thumb.jpg

6. Now, back under the dash at the back there are 4 phillip head screws per line, undo the screws plus one screw for the plastic tab that holds the core in place.

post-36975-0-11170700-1314503667_thumb.jpg

7. Thats it! you should now see this

post-36975-0-72984600-1314503715_thumb.jpg post-36975-0-04787800-1314504012_thumb.jpg

Gently slide it out trying to point the holes up as much as possible so they don't spill

Yep... its leaking...

post-36975-0-19801400-1314503869_thumb.jpg post-36975-0-52807000-1314503795_thumb.jpg post-36975-0-72431900-1314503808_thumb.jpg

So this is what you will be left with...

post-36975-0-39667100-1314503965_thumb.jpg

Get a replacement ($60-100) and do the reverse, top up some coolant (check for air locks etc) and your back on the road

Adam

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Mine done same thing. I decided on new core and removal of dash.

Done dash before so was eazy. And that way you dont need to regas aircon.

I ended up getting new core dont want to same thing to happen anytime soon.

Btw great writeup :)

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Update - I picked up a complete (whole plastic box + lines and heater core) in great condition for $70.

Awesome cheers heaps for that that'll make it alot easier now shouldn't take to long i hope but if it does oh well

thanks heaps man.

Cheers Toby

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Ok my gone now and have done the bypass as well but I have a question to the above tutorial as in ....

What if youu still have a valid working air conditioning unit and how dowes this change the procedure to change the heater core?

Dazza

If you want to retain your aircon in a working state while doing this you have to literally remove the entire dash to get back there so you don't have to undo the aircon lines - as soon as you open them you will release the gas = no more aircon.

I'm going to put the aircon lines back in my car soon and get them regassed.

IMHO though, even if I had aircon at the time when this happened, I would still fix it the way I did above and just get the aircon regassed for ~$100 then to spent 4-6 hours just removing the dash instead of 1 hour.

  • 8 years later...

Heads up on this useful guide. Just changed out my R33 core sourced from Kudos motorsport. I removed the passenger seat, was quite comfortable laying there on the carpet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...