Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rather than start a new thread, thought I'd just ask here.

I did a fair bit of research, and ended up dealing with a mob that were recommended on CAA. They recommended the following for my Stag:

Front components: Focal 165KR

Rear co-axials: Focal 165CVX

Amplifier: Hertz HDP4

Another option was to leave the standard rears and go with Focal 165KRX2 (200W vs 160W).

Has anyone used any of those and got any suggestions/feedback? 165KRs seem to get rave reviews, and the amp seems to have the power to run everything.

What is your budget mate? For a 165KR I'm guessing you're looking at spending $700 on speakers? Have you considered something from brands such as Rainbow, Morel, Audison? They all offer very nice speakers in your price range, you may find they offer a much more dynamic tweeter, and more midbass from both Rainbow and Audison.

But if you were set on the gear you have chosen (and don't get me wrong, it is lovely gear) I would abobroad minded personely ditch the rears and spend your whole budget on the fronts. Sound quality competition cars do not run rear speakers, for the best sound quality you want all the sound coming from in front of you. This is best for your soundstage. I would not even consider rears in a coupe, if your car is a coupe.

Rather than start a new thread, thought I'd just ask here.

I did a fair bit of research, and ended up dealing with a mob that were recommended on CAA. They recommended the following for my Stag:

Front components: Focal 165KR

Rear co-axials: Focal 165CVX

Amplifier: Hertz HDP4

Another option was to leave the standard rears and go with Focal 165KRX2 (200W vs 160W).

Has anyone used any of those and got any suggestions/feedback? 165KRs seem to get rave reviews, and the amp seems to have the power to run everything.

yeah Im sure that sounds pretty good, but wasn't cheap , but using factory rear with high end fronts on a amp is like having 500hp and drum brakes on 4 wheels. you can do it but you shouldn't ..lol

the factory rear option is only for some systems .

and dont be fooled not all SQ cars run just front stage, most real live music has reverberation and reflections with delays(unless its outdoors on the grass) if you listen to it live.!!!! it gives it texture . Im not talking a pair of deck mounted 6x9's being fed from a 300 watt 50 dollar amp . but actual quality speakers setup with RTA and decent amp. turned to perfection , not driven to excess. its like closing your eyes and thinking your not in a small car but in a concert stage ??

why do you think car radio companies strive to put Dolby/THX or similar surround in a car. ? not just for DVD's for kids in back seats

Edited by Carbon 34

yeah Im sure that sounds pretty good, but wasn't cheap , but using factory rear with high end fronts on a amp is like having 500hp and drum brakes on 4 wheels. you can do it but you shouldn't ..lol

the factory rear option is only for some systems .

and dont be fooled not all SQ cars run just front stage, most real live music has reverberation and reflections with delays(unless its outdoors on the grass) if you listen to it live.!!!! it gives it texture . Im not talking a pair of deck mounted 6x9's being fed from a 300 watt 50 dollar amp . but actual quality speakers setup with RTA and decent amp. turned to perfection , not driven to excess. its like closing your eyes and thinking your not in a small car but in a concert stage ??

why do you think car radio companies strive to put Dolby/THX or similar surround in a car. ? not just for DVD's for kids in back seats

The tuning required to run a proper rear stage is quite large, most people would not have the possibility of tuning it properly. And even so, what would you really gain from running a rear stage? If anything the depth would be worse.

I am a novice when it comes to sound quality, I have only been competing for two years. Though I have learnt a fair bit in the two years competing, and the years before that with car stereo.

I have yet to see a car do well with a rear stage in MEA sanctioned SQ Competitions, nor have I seen any of the current Australian number 1 competitors use a rear stage

I disagree with most surround sound in cars, even the like of Bose/Dolby as you mentioned, they are often poorly setup in my opinion, I've listened to $7000 optioned Bose stereo's in brand new Alfa Romeos only to have it sound poor.

For people here, with a limited budget, in a 2 door coupe, rear speakers would be a waste of money and and would only on occasion benefit the passengers.

If the whole speaker budget was spent on the fronts only and a decent amp to run them, the person driving would be much happier.

I'd understand running stockies in the back in a coupe perhaps, but this is a Stagea, and I was planning on replacing the rears because I have passengers from time to time and I also have some buzzing from the rear speakers (hence replacing the lot).

I don't really thing I have anywhere in Adelaide I can try Rainbow, Morel or Audison. I'm not sure how much I should spend for something that sounds nice. Doesn't have to be huge dollars usually.

Initially I was looking at JL Audio C3650 for front and rear, but by the time I bought a suitable amp it seemed like similar money, not including the install and deadening.

The tuning required to run a proper rear stage is quite large, most people would not have the possibility of tuning it properly. And even so, what would you really gain from running a rear stage? If anything the depth would be worse.

I am a novice when it comes to sound quality, I have only been competing for two years. Gee 2 years, my first install is most likely older then you are ??? My first big 3 way system was in 1986 in USA a much bigger market !! Though I have learnt a fair bit in the two years competing, and the years before that with car stereo.

I have yet to see a car do well with a rear stage in MEA sanctioned SQ Competitions, nor have I seen any of the current Australian number 1 competitors use a rear stage

I disagree with most surround sound in cars, even the like of Bose BLOSE IS RUBBISH every factrory setup is and all can be improved upon !!! /Dolby as you mentioned, they are often poorly setup in my opinion,(I doubt a local installer knows how to setup a Dolby System, and RTA software is now fairly cheap fo laptops so you dont need AudioControl RTA that cost big bucks) I've listened to $7000 optioned Bose stereo's in brand new Alfa Romeos only to have it sound poor.I've had systems that cost less then a grand sound better then a poorly/designed installed 5k + one ?

For people here, with a limited budget, in a 2 door coupe, rear speakers would be a waste of money and and would only on occasion benefit the passengers. I do agree with that but if your only running a Budget minded deck then 4 speakers would be a better sound then just expensive fronts

If the whole speaker budget was spent on the fronts only and a decent amp to run them, the person driving would be much happier.

A real installer and sales team will sit with a customer to find out the budget and end goals, not every system is a cookie cutter case!!!

I think this thread should be closed its off track , this place needs a chat room,, haha

Not to sound rude, but this is fairly incorrect. Focal make very nice speaker systems there is no doubt, but of the best is debatable.

I say there is something better on offer for every focal model released, money wise.

If you read what I wrote I clearly said one of the best manufacturers. Therefore as a whole. Never said every model they make is better than anything else.

Hence my comment about Ferrari. Sure Pagani or Bugatti may make one or two cars that are much better than a Ferrari, but as a whole you would still say Ferrari are one of the best manufacturers.

And in home cinema speakers their Grand Utopias are considered one of the best speakers in the world and have won numerous awards. With a price tag of close to a quarter or a million dollars I can easily see why.

those are nice sounding, I heard them at CES in vegas and my friends shop in denver with boulder amps running them . but overpriced ,

price doesnt always equal qualiity.... it equals company profit and bragging rights

they would match this cheap car amp from a while back, retail on introduction was 300,000 bucks for a car amp ???Phoenix Gold made some crazy amps back in the day we used to sell them , run a whole car on a 20watt per channel amp(rated power) but actually puts out over a thousand watts total , load them down to 1/4 ohm damn near a dead short !!!!

http://webfaq.phoenixphorum.com/MPH6300.htm

now a meager 99,0000

PPI ART series ,Orion HCCA, Rockford "POWER", US AMP, Zapco had some too. most of those are still top of the line even 20 years old and sell for a mint on ebay

Keep in mind quality of materials and technology used in their equipment should be a factor in deciding which brand is better. You will realise that for 'better' equipment you will need to pay a bit more but yes the relationship between price and quality of sound is not linear. And you will never escape one or two people saying that this product or that product is overpriced in an attempt to change your mind.

I looked at jl for my sub. Heard the 12w6 when it came out and in a friends 34 gtr and loved the SQ. Didn't wanna pay that much so got a 12w3 eventually based on the sound quality and also the quality of materials used to make the 12w6. Granted I know the 12w3 won't have the same materials to save on production cost but the technology should be the same. Oh and I have to say it but I think the 12w7 was a bit overpriced :turned:.

Oh and yeh I agree with the point on there being plenty of 'better' (very loosely used term here btw - up to personal preference of course) options than Apline. Btw I think we lost the guy who started this topic.

In summary: Buy a sony....:ban:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...