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i change my engine cause my old one timing belt bust. so i bought a use engine [not transmission] . when i drive the car, IT would hesitate a little and then drive, only to realizes that the car is driving on the 2nd gear and sticking on the 3rd, it will not go over to the 4th, but the engine will rev all the up until i take my foot of the pedal. sometimes it will drive normal like start of in the 1st or if i stop and start the car about two or three time it will drive ok. the thing i don`t know what is causing that CAN ANYONE HELP ME OUT

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DId you change anything except the engine block?

If you simply bolted in the replacement motor, maybe the replacement is from a manual car, and the throttle body sensor does not tell your ECU to kick down... Something simple like that.

Please provide more info into what you have changed.

Are you in South Africa?

no i am from trinidad, west indies.

and the engine is from an automatic all i did is snap on the new engine and the problem start.

but as is stated the car would sometime drive normal or if i stop and start the car two or three times it would work normal.

it sounds like the hydraulics in the valve body are playing up or maybe the oil pump is not driving correctly and not supplying the right pressure for the valve body work. Best take it to a specialist as auto boxes are not easy like manuals and all makes and models are different in there own ways.

BIRDS if you don`t know without the RB20 they would have been no RB30ET.

IT`S LIKE YOU GOING BACK IN THE PASS AND KILLED YOUR GREAT GREAT GREAT GRANDFATHER

PUFF NO YOU.

with all the jokes

i still would like to know what to do

if i were to change the transmission oil would that help?

Edited by rb20forgiven

Sounds electrical.

It could also be the valve body being in 2nd instead of D - make sure that you have the T bar selector aligned properly under the car

PUFF NO YOU <<<<< LOVE IT

I figure English is a second language here; its hard to understand whats going on

When i had an Auto skyline; a **broken Solenoid** in the transmission was stopping the car from going into 4th gear. It could be that if not

any of the suggestions above. it cost $700 to get fixed.

No changing the oil will not help.

Finally is it possible whatever bits he has chucked into his car are not compatible?

will check out the electrical

and as i said the car will work good sometime or if i stop and tumble the engine two or three times it would drive normally from the fist gear

my opinion after having a rb20et with a gearbox issue involving slipping top gear ( previous owner towing a boat i believe and also had a cracked hose going to wastgate so running 14psi without me knowing) is to not waste money on the crap auto and just buy a manual and do conversion atleast...

better still do a rb25et conversion or buy another car cause its seriously a waste of money doing anything to such a crap motor and box, at mimimum its a shit box not worth spending money on... and thats the truth...

There is a good chance that your TPS is not adjusted correctly. It may not be the only thing wrong, but it is a place you can start.

What I write below is based on my knowledge of RB20DET. I assume that the RB20E works the same.

The engine part of the TPS is just a closed throttle switch. Just a switch, nothing more. But the auto trans part of the TPS is a variable resistor. You can check each of these separately.

With the engine running, grab the throttle cable pull crank at the throttle body and twist it open a tiny bit. If the TPS is adjusted correctly then you should only be able to move it the tiniest amount before you hear the injectors give a double pulse. What I mean by this is that at idel you can hear the injectors firing at a certain frequency. When you open the throttle that tiny amount, you should hear the injectors fire twice. That's the accelarator enrichment pulse. If you don't hear it at all, then the TPS is adjusted incorectly in one direction, and if you only hear it after the throttle has been opened a larger amount, then the TPS is adjusted wrongly in the other direction.

So, you can check that and fix it if necessary.

You also need to download a suitable service manual for the RB20E engine. This is so you can find out what resistance the auto trans part of the TPS is reading at closed throttle and WOT. It is often wise to check those readings from the TPS itself, and then go back to the other end of the wiring (at the engine or transmission ECU end of the loom) to see what it says there. That way you can check to see if you've got broken wire or dirty connector problems. The resistance might not be given directly. The book may tell you to look for a certain voltage. If you are looking for a voltage, then that means you need to have it all connected together, powered up with the ignition on, and you have to be careful to not short anything which could kill the ECUs. You will need to probe into the back of wiring connectors to access the terminals.

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