Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah yeah, searched various sections. I'm sick of starting threads too...so just want concise answers please :)

my pedal bracket snapped, as they do. Now it's easily fixed up by frankenstein-style welding that shit - but I need to remove it. I'm not at all interested in dismantling my dash (at least not too much) so I want to know - has anyone removed it on a GTS-T without taking their dash out? Is it doable? I've heard speculation that the bracket itself is actually spot-welded onto the firewall as well as bolted in, true?

If anyone has pics of the standard pedal bracket out of the car, it would be much appreciated so I can see where the mounting points are :D

post-60560-0-40915300-1315026344_thumb.jpg

that's what's up with mine. Easy fix, if I can get it out.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376086-r33-gts-t-clutch-pedal-bracket/
Share on other sites

Easy as.

- Undo the 2 nuts on the master cylinder in the engine bay.

- Get a torch and pull the pin on the clutch cylinder rod.

- Unplug the clutch pedal switch

- Undo bolt pointing straight up hold pedal box.

Wiggle it out. Should take about about 30mins first time.

  • Like 1

Its not a bitch, just a tight space. As the other guys have said its that easy. Once you've welded it back up, paint it silver then you can say it's a nismo unit. Cos thats all they do

I've found the final mounting point of the bracket. There is NO WAY you can undo it. It's up the very top of the bracket.

Unless there's something different about my pedal bracket, I call bullshit that anyone has ever done this with the dash in place.

I have, a few times. I use a 3/8 drive swivel socket, 12mm from memory. Got a kid nearby with skinny hands??

swivel socket = effectively a U-joint?

looking at pics of the "Nismo" replacement, I'll be using a long extension for the socket and going straight up IN FRONT of the pedal itself?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=86651&group_ID=325&store=&dir=catalog

Something like that sucker, 3/8 drive rachet, 120mm extension and socket. Dunno why yours is being so difficult

ok all good mate, got it done.

Mine was so difficult because it took me forever to find that last bolt, and then because of how I discovered it I concluded it wasn't possible to get to.

Ended up just using the larger ratchet drive (since I don't have any small drive 12mm sockets) and a really long extension.

And it's back in. I must say, putting it back in was MILLIONS times more difficult than pulling it out. That bolt I was having trouble finding was a PRICK to get back in :(

Either way, she's welded up nicely (read: horribly. We used an arc welder - blew a few holes through the bracket rofl) and back in. Only downside is my battery went flat from having the door open all the time :(

Thanks for the help guys!

  • 3 years later...

WOW I have never pulled out a clutch peddle befor and got it out in about 20 minutes, welded it up and back it took no longer than 1 hour. only 2 nuts, 1 bolt and a pin. super easy !! but I am a bike mechanic so it would be easier than if you have never really done this be for but very good to learn how to fix these small things rather than paying someone probably about $400 to fix it for you

Yes not that difficult, but I found breaking other items was the worst part, boot release for example.

So whenever I'm working on/under/around the dash, out come the front seats first thing.

Then unbolt the boot release as the handle is flimsy plastic and if you accidentally sit on it, she'll break.

Toss in a few bags of rags to lie on and I'm ready to go.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...