Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As i was driving the car around this morning the engine died and i couldnt restart it, since getting it towed home i have done the following checks.

I have checked and it is getting spark, the guts of the ignitor look fine

The injectors are getting fuel to the rail and they are firing (removed the rail/injectors and cranked engine over, fuel pump does the pre crank prime too)

Throttle position sensor is reading correctly, i can only assume the CAS is working correctly as spark and fuel are being triggered in the correct order.

Fuses have all been checked and are all OK.

Timing belt marks all line up but even skipping 2 teeth it would still start.

Pressing the throttle to about 50% while cranking did get it started once, i moved the revs between 2000-3000 but as i was doing that it died after about 5 seconds of running (AFR was showing 11.4:1 at the time).

I have no idea what on earth else it could be. Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376091-engine-stalled-wont-start/
Share on other sites

Does pressing the throttle to 50% start it now? Or was that a one time thing. If it starts again under 50% throttle but dies when you shut the throttle your AAC valve may be stuck shut.

Does the cranking sound normal to you (ie, lumpy.. like it's still getting good compression). Does it ever almost fire or is it just dead dead?

Sounds like you've checked the basics pretty thoroughly.. Check the AFM connector if the ECU logs a fault there then the engine will run like a pile of poo and starting may be really difficult too.

Does pressing the throttle to 50% start it now? Or was that a one time thing. If it starts again under 50% throttle but dies when you shut the throttle your AAC valve may be stuck shut.

Does the cranking sound normal to you (ie, lumpy.. like it's still getting good compression). Does it ever almost fire or is it just dead dead?

Sounds like you've checked the basics pretty thoroughly.. Check the AFM connector if the ECU logs a fault there then the engine will run like a pile of poo and starting may be really difficult too.

Even if the AAC valve is stuck shut i was driving when it initially cut out/stalled not stationary/idling and when it did start while holding the throttle open it also stalled with the throttle open not closed.

It cranks normally, but doesnt fire/pop/splutter/anything.

The ECU is MAP based so no AFM, MAP sensor is giving a signal to the ecu

Engine?

25/30 but that shouldn't make any difference.

Buy a new car?

har har

all intake/cooler pipes are on and secure, i did check the spark plugs and they look fine (they are only 6 days old, as is the whole engine, setup had been working perfectly up until today).

map sensor readings looked normal, but i can double check tomorrow.

i checked and fuel flow is fine so unlikely to be the filter, pumped out 1L in a few of seconds of priming.

What is the fuel pressure?

Have you checked compression readings?

dont have the tools on hand to check those at the moment.

Are u running a top timing beltcover?

Check the cas hasnt snapped the shaft

Yes i am, always have done. the half moons are still in place.

Would the car start or run if the map sensor line had been cut or popped off?

Checked the line from engine to ECU all still firmly attached, map readings go up and down if pressure/vac is applied to the engine side of the line and i also checked for leaks, line holds pressure fine.

I'm surprised you haven't fouled your spark plugs after that many failed attempts. My car died on my, tried so many different things and then noticed all the failed starts flooded my plugs. I would still see a spark but there was no way they would fire in the engine and my battery died trying. New plugs and it was fine. Just because you can see the spark outside the cylinder does not mean it well hold up when there is fuel in there and compression occurring. If the plug is could the spark won't last or seize to exist.

Use a timing light and see if its sparking at the correct time. I had a cas shaft snap an still sparked etc but wasnt at the correct time.

As with the compression and fuel pressure tests i wont be able to do them until i can get my hands on the tools (hopefully i can borrow them monday night)

I'm surprised you haven't fouled your spark plugs after that many failed attempts. My car died on my, tried so many different things and then noticed all the failed starts flooded my plugs. I would still see a spark but there was no way they would fire in the engine and my battery died trying. New plugs and it was fine. Just because you can see the spark outside the cylinder does not mean it well hold up when there is fuel in there and compression occurring. If the plug is could the spark won't last or seize to exist.

Just tried different plugs with the same coil packs and then with different coil packs, no difference.

What is the fuel pressure?

Have you checked compression readings?

Fuel pressure, when priming steady 45psi, when cranking 40psi

Compression results. (cold and dry test)

1. 160

2. 175

3. 170

4. 160

5. 160

6. 160

Use a timing light and see if its sparking at the correct time. I had a cas shaft snap an still sparked etc but wasnt at the correct time.

tried a timing light on it but it didnt seem compatible with the coilpack setup sparkplug would spark but no flash from the timing light.

will hopefully borrow another cas on the weekend and test with that see if that gets it going.

put a high tension lead between the coil pack and the spark plug and attach ur timing light to that... :)

also sounds like a timing issue :S or low fuel pressure but uve solved that .... im thinking air idle control valve try remove it pull it apart and clean it out with some solvent (evaporative) solution i dont know if they cause a non starting issue maby their cleaned for more of a hunting issue... try it anyway

put a high tension lead between the coil pack and the spark plug and attach ur timing light to that... :)

also sounds like a timing issue :S or low fuel pressure but uve solved that .... im thinking air idle control valve try remove it pull it apart and clean it out with some solvent (evaporative) solution i dont know if they cause a non starting issue maby their cleaned for more of a hunting issue... try it anyway

even with the throttle opened it doesn't start. which it would if it was just the idle control valve not working. as for the high tension lead into the coil, that never occured to me but at this point im happy to just wait untill i can get my hands on a known working cas and ignitor to test.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...