Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dips I've been told are like that on every car that is dyno'd at Morpowa.

Those dips are normal, if you have even more points on the graph it can look really really bad, valve float tends to have much deeper valleys from the few I've seen, could present itself in more than one way though.

If you suspect lifters, would taking say 10 compression tests show up a partially failing lifter?

  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you suspect lifters, would taking say 10 compression tests show up a partially failing lifter?

not if they are pumping up at high revs.

Unfortunatley at 900 bucks + fitting its not something you would want to change to find it was something silly like a vacuum leak

Run it up to Boostworx for a power run.

See if Shaun can throw any ideas at it. He's been doing the RB30 DOHC's (VL's) well before bl4ck32 and myself did ours years ago.

On the note of timing up the rb30's. I've never had issues. I've had the stock cams out twice and the regrinds out twice.

To time her up I'd simply line up the bottom (usually take a picture as my head won't fit) and then shove the cam belt on lightly, turn the motor in the direction of spin to line up both cam gears spot on then tighten up both tensioners at the same time.

I take her for a quick spin and check it again.

The dyno sheet attached was of mine running 5w30 oil (anything thicker would result in bad valve float)

I also had to wait until the oil was 100% warm otherwise the valves would float and lifters would pump up causing a rough idle until the lifters bled down - scary days it was.

The symptoms - top end felt flat, the dyno sheet really didn't wave around that much and it really struggled to hold on to boost up top.

Once on the road and warm thinking it was fine after giving it a bit of a hard time the top end would start to feel flat again - yeah thinking back I was playing with fire but at the time I had never experienced float as such before.

Yours - that dip looks like some spring surge/float dyno sheets i saw in the old days when I was googling my own issues.

post-382-0-58850300-1317985925_thumb.jpg

post-382-0-29868400-1317986324_thumb.jpg

not if they are pumping up at high revs.

Unfortunatley at 900 bucks + fitting its not something you would want to change to find it was something silly like a vacuum leak

I always hear lots of stories of noisy rebuilt heads, I thought hydraulic ones were meant to be easy to adjust?

Hell even my solid lifters in my neo are quieter than my old rebuilt r33 head.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1818588

Rock auto sell new 300zx hydraulic lifters for quite a reasonable price. Im sure I saw somewhere that they are the same as rb25 lifters.

Hopefully that might help.

UPDATE!!!

Ok so Tomei 256/8.5 IN&EX cams + adjustable gears were put in.

Car was timed using DIAL GUAGES. Builder said that he had to run 7-8 deg advanced on the intake side and 6 deg on the exhaust side from "zero" when the dial guages displayed that the cams were in the right position ("zero'd" as you would with a standard type setup).

Car was chucked on the dyno...From what I was told in conversation, the ignition timing was measured with a gun so that the ignition timing on the computer could be verified. For some reason the timing was 10 degrees out (advanced from memory). I have no idea why this was the case as the computer was not touched since last time the thing was on the dyno. So the timing was reset in the computer.

Few runs were conducted. Timing was played with up to around 8-10 times on both the exhaust side and intake side. But the thing still wouldn't make more power than about 250RWKW. Much lower than you would expect with the cams + turbo + motor setup.

They took it off the dyno for lunch. Cooled down, then ran it again...Made about 5RWKW more.

So all up it finished with about 255.5RWKW at an A/R of about 11.5-11.8.

See dyno graph below.

A comparison - my Rb30 has just been fired up. Stock bottom end and stock RB25DE head new rings bearings rod bolts and N1 pump. Sinco manifold (similar to 6boost) Greddy copy FFplenum, HDi i/c, GT3540 with .63 ex, stock throttle body+ fpr, 550 injectors, synapse 50mm w/g , Link G4, venom cat and 3in exhaust now at 9 psi (to be tuned to 18 - 21 psi) limited to 6500:

RB30Startuptuneboostchart001.jpg

RB30startuptorquepower001.jpg

Run it up to Boostworx for a power run.

See if Shaun can throw any ideas at it.

sometimes the simplest fix is to get another set of eyes to look at the problem. Ive had problems that I was pulling my hair out trying to solve, when someone walks past and notices something that was staring me in the face....

With regards to lifters. Another thing I came across.

My RB20DET lifters were different to the r32 RB25DE. When the RB20DET lifters were installed in the r32 rb25de head the lifters were exceptionally noisy. The lifters when in the rb20 were quiet.

I pulled both RB20det and rb25de lifters apart all cleaned primed etc. It appeared as if the rb20det lifters would sit just that little bit lower. So if you have an r32 rb25de head another thing to keep an eye out for.

sometimes the simplest fix is to get another set of eyes to look at the problem. Ive had problems that I was pulling my hair out trying to solve, when someone walks past and notices something that was staring me in the face....

Agreed.

After a few weeks of driving, I'll probably take it to Shaun or another workshop in mind to look at the top end issue.

With regards to lifters. Another thing I came across.

My RB20DET lifters were different to the r32 RB25DE. When the RB20DET lifters were installed in the r32 rb25de head the lifters were exceptionally noisy. The lifters when in the rb20 were quiet.

I pulled both RB20det and rb25de lifters apart all cleaned primed etc. It appeared as if the rb20det lifters would sit just that little bit lower. So if you have an r32 rb25de head another thing to keep an eye out for.

IIRC my lifters in the head on the RB25/30 are the standard RB25DE lifters. These have been cleaned/bled. However there are still one or two (or many!) noisy lifters according to the builder. I think replacing them could be an option...However, as you have stated, there is a difference between the RB20DET and RB25DE lifters. I just don't know how I can be sure without physically measuring them (or someone kindly doing it for me on a motor they have thumbsup.gif) and contacting the company R33_Racer stated earlier and sizing it all up.

Guess I'll have to explore these avenues!

Very off topic, but isn't this a paradox?

As seen in Zebra's Signiture:

D_I_F, on 04 May 2011 - 06:10 PM, said:

OMG I'm in Zebra's Sig!!! f**k I must be cool!

How can this not destroy time and space? Or do I just enjoy my Monkey Island/Doctor Who too much?

They may fit one another's motor. That doesn't necessarily mean that they are the right lifter for that motor though- as per Cube's comment and the thread I linked to a few posts above. Cube's said that the RB20DET were marginally smaller- this caused the valve train to be a tad noisier.

Yup.

Im already on this. Sent an email to that supplier you kindly listed re: dimensions. Once I get a reply (if they are willing to share) we can compare to the RB25DE/Other hydraulic lifters.

Hopefully they are a suitable replacement...at least for my wallet's sake!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...