Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2001 300gt sedan, was putting in another lighter plug in middle consol bit today went to start car incase batt was going flat and nothing, all dash lights,windows eveything working but wont start, had aa guy come out he told me theres no power going to starter motor, a month ago the alarm key got lost, have been using a normal 10$ key cut since and has been working fine, has somthing iv done triggered the immobiliser to go off maybe?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376774-help-car-immoblised/
Share on other sites

2001 300gt sedan, was putting in another lighter plug in middle consol bit today went to start car incase batt was going flat and nothing, all dash lights,windows eveything working but wont start, had aa guy come out he told me theres no power going to starter motor, a month ago the alarm key got lost, have been using a normal 10$ key cut since and has been working fine, has somthing iv done triggered the immobiliser to go off maybe?

Do your front lights flash after you try to start it - in which case it could be the stock immobiliser. Otherwise, if it's an automatic, could you have inadvertently disconnected the sensor which tells the car you're in Park (car will not start if it isn't in Park).

Just ideas...

Nope no flashing, yes auto, will have a look to see if i have

thanks

Do your front lights flash after you try to start it - in which case it could be the stock immobiliser. Otherwise, if it's an automatic, could you have inadvertently disconnected the sensor which tells the car you're in Park (car will not start if it isn't in Park).

Just ideas...

Couldnt see anything had been disconnected all tho i didnt really know what i was looking for, noticed on the dash nothing is showing up where should say d,n,r or what ever, battery looks to have just died the first thing i thought when it didnt start was battery so i hooked jumper leads up and didnt do anything aa guy also tryed to, so with in 20mins my batt has died..dont know if this has somthing to do with it or just coincidence or what

Nope no flashing, yes auto, will have a look to see if i have

thanks

Couldnt see anything had been disconnected all tho i didnt really know what i was looking for, noticed on the dash nothing is showing up where should say d,n,r or what ever, battery looks to have just died the first thing i thought when it didnt start was battery so i hooked jumper leads up and didnt do anything aa guy also tryed to, so with in 20mins my batt has died..dont know if this has somthing to do with it or just coincidence or what

If you have no dash lights then you have most likely blown a fuse. There is a tail light or wiper fuse i think in drivers kick panel so check there.

Have dash lights, was meaning where it has the little letter as to what gear your in is lit up but not showing any letter

If you have no dash lights then you have most likely blown a fuse. There is a tail light or wiper fuse i think in drivers kick panel so check there.

It was a standard nissan alarm key, i was suprised it worked with a normal key as the alarm was activated when key was lost, when i unlocked door with normal key it beeped for a bit put it in ignition and worked,.

How did you just use a normal key and not your alarm key?

Your gonna have to get in contact with your alarm maker and get the override code for the alarm and then get another key asap.

if you can tell them how it happened - yes. the dealer fitted immobiliser should have been pulled when compliance was done. the other one (compliance fitted) may be simply hacked into place and quite easily removed.

without the car in front of me I am simply pulling straws.

i dont know if we have same complience thing here in nz, was looking under dash and found a nissan alarm box, but theres a few wires going here and there that definatly dont look factory, guess ill get an auto elec to check it out and hope for the best.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...