Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sexy!

You've put a bit of work into that!

Another tip my engine builder suggested (but I'm not sure I'll bother with or not) is a splash guard I guess you would call it that deflects the oil dropping down from the oil returns in the head to the side of the block so it doesn't drop onto the crank which creates further drag and additional oil mist in the crankcase.

Makes sense I guess but where do you stop??

thanks, yea the cleanup work was done by my mate Grootie from Grooties Race and Resto in Adelaide.

the rb30 center returns hug the wall as you can see in the picture next to the bottom of the piston bores, and dont present as much as a problem as the rear galleries do, as the center area is a tornado of oil anyhow due to the spray from out of the sides of the bearings. the rear galleries however dump most of the oil back into the sump and on serious drag cars or circuit cars, presents an issue wh ere the oil is actually going back up those rear galleries, therefore not allowing the oil to flow down there fast enough. Those cards you were talkin about would be best placed there , we thought about doing it, but its a prick of a place to try and weld in some cards/baffles, but it can be done. I think it would present the best payoff/benifit, i guess, for the oil control issue in these RB motors

Im sure this has been done to death previously, and ps im not a mechanic, just a hobbyist.

cheers.

Sexy!

You've put a bit of work into that!

Another tip my engine builder suggested (but I'm not sure I'll bother with or not) is a splash guard I guess you would call it that deflects the oil dropping down from the oil returns in the head to the side of the block so it doesn't drop onto the crank which creates further drag and additional oil mist in the crankcase.

Makes sense I guess but where do you stop??

also called a windage tray.

thought about 2-3months after it was in the car, should have adapted the 26 windage trays to suit the 30.....

bah, next time...

  • 8 months later...

Sorry for bringing up an old thread but does anyone have more photos of exactly what holes to drill out so can do it before taking my block to the machine shop.

For the oil feeds, returns, or both?

also called a windage tray. (NO windage trays sit in the sump)

thought about 2-3months after it was in the car, should have adapted the 26 windage trays to suit the 30.....

bah, next time...

also called a windage tray. (NO . .the windage trays sit in the sump)

thought about 2-3months after it was in the car, should have adapted the 26 windage trays to suit the 30.....

bah, next time...

quoted for what reason?

and possibly about to do this in the following month.

Had trouble sending from my phone, hence the double post, but BEARING SPINNER was telling SHOOTA that "its called a windage tray" . . .but thats not what SHOOTA was talking about

a windage tray is in place to stop the crank from whipping up the oil in the sump(as it spins) and possibly away from the oil pickup

SHOOTA was asking about baffles that deflect the draining oil from dropping onto the crank

Had trouble sending from my phone, hence the double post, but BEARING SPINNER was telling SHOOTA that "its called a windage tray" . . .but thats not what SHOOTA was talking about

a windage tray is in place to stop the crank from whipping up the oil in the sump(as it spins) and possibly away from the oil pickup

SHOOTA was asking about baffles that deflect the draining oil from dropping onto the crank

ah, mis read it.

my bad.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...