Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I Need help :

I have looked through the topics and cant find an answer specific to my needs and the info simply isnt available in the UK. :teehee:

I have a series one with a rb26 conversion through a late 33GTR box with dual syncros. It is running just over 500bhp at the hubs. Pretty much everything has been uprated to past gtr spec except the rear suspension which is still standard apart from bilsteins so I want to uprate the back end in one go .

I also have an RS Four S with stagea specific Nismo S tune supension .This is way better than my current Bilstein set up even though it is only 1500 miles old . Problem is that these have a fork fitting on the rears like all Ss and Rs 260s . I have previously tried swopping the diffs and hubs when attempting to use an RS four S LSD but they dont swop over so easily.

So rather than mess about the plan is to rebuild a back end using an RS four S subframe (already sourced)with the Nismo suspension (because I already have it) to the series one and use a HICAS locking bar

I already have a set of autech suspension top go back on the S

While I am building the new back end I can fit adjustable arms and poly bushes and change the lot in one go. I can then use my current diff which has had a GTR LSD fitted and keep the original Stagea ratios.

I dont want to do a complete GTR swop if it means having to change the front diff.

Unless of course any one has a better solution ?

Edited by RSVFOURUK

Yes there is an easier way but as you have purchased all the other parts anyway its too late. You will be redusing your rear track width so your current wheel offset may be an issue but you will be able to run more dish :) What hubs & half shafts are you going to use?

If there is an easier way please explain .

Dont worry about the parts Ive already got.

I also want to keep the wheels as have just had them redone with new toyos. Plus i think they suit the car

IMG_0435.jpg

I have the GTR diff (for the LSD) and 6 x 1 GTR axles (because they are thicker and stronger than the 5 x1 or 3 x 2 Stagea ones) but kept the stock hubs so I could keep my Bilsteins but you may as well change the lot since you want the fork type. I have a theory that the 4.083 Stagea front diff would be within tolerance of the GTR 4.111 diff as far as the Atessa is concerned ( although I have 2 GTR diffs myself because they were readily available). The difference according to my calulator is about 0.7% which is probably less than some tyre wear would produce. Joe Kyle who did the job also put the Stagea abs rings back on because they were different from the GTR ones.

So, can you use the stag gears in the gtr diff?

Can you use the gtr lsd in the stag diff?

They are both R200 right?

If your using the gtr diff for the 6bolt axles, do the gtr diffs bolt into the stag (rsfourv) rear cradle?

Kiwi you mentioned the abs ring being different, that would be to do with the different attesa systems (attesa ets vs attesa etspro), so why wouldnt you then use the gtr (r33?) attesa system if your looking to get the most out of your stag?

How hard is it to swap the gear sets in the front diff (ie: do you need to remove the engine first)?

Ok you can use the GTR center in the rs4 housing with the rs4 gearing. So altessa pump mount is kept etc, the larger gtr cover can be used with minor mods to fit (grinder)

Use the 6 bolt (non vspec) axles and a narrow cradle ie s14 non hicas.

No need to change the hubs as Kiwi has said so no need to change to fork suspension. But you may aswell as you have the suspension. Use R33-34 gtr hubs

If you want to keep the wider cradle you need to use z32tt axles as they have the wider track like the rs4, axles are 6 bolt on tt and 5 bolt on non turbo.

When you replace the cradle bushes use gtst not gtr bushes because the gtr's are longer.

IMO with the parts you have allready just run spacers on the rear if you need too.

Edited by rb30dett

So, can you use the stag gears in the gtr diff?

Can you use the gtr lsd in the stag diff?

They are both R200 right?

If your using the gtr diff for the 6bolt axles, do the gtr diffs bolt into the stag (rsfourv) rear cradle?

Kiwi you mentioned the abs ring being different, that would be to do with the different attesa systems (attesa ets vs attesa etspro), so why wouldnt you then use the gtr (r33?) attesa system if your looking to get the most out of your stag?

How hard is it to swap the gear sets in the front diff (ie: do you need to remove the engine first)?

  1. yes
  2. yes
  3. yes
  4. yes, but rs4 (auto) rear cradles are wider so gtr axles are too short to use on rs4 cradles.
  5. not worth the trouble, very little to gain.
  6. See question 1

Edited by rb30dett

Thanks rb30dett, its rare that someone actually answers so succinct and definatively, cheers!

So with regard to #4, your suggesting that z32 turbo axles can be used to resolve this issue?

and #5, although alittle tedious, it can be done & there is an advantage however small it maybe? I mean Nissan evolved this system for a reason & every GTR is quicker than the last, so why not take advantage of this? As going pro would give 4wheel semi-independant torque splitting & ABS, rather than just front/rear. That has to be of some advantage? If so, just changing the ABS rings, the G-sensor & Attesa control module be all thats required? Or do i need to change pumps aswell?

Edited by Zorro

Kiwi you mentioned the abs ring being different, that would be to do with the different attesa systems (attesa ets vs attesa etspro), so why wouldnt you then use the gtr (r33?) attesa system if your looking to get the most out of your stag?

For a start I don't have one and I would have to get the computer and a set of abs rings for the front different sensors etc. not to mention wiring .

Was just a small job to swap the rings at the back.

Thanks rb30dett, its rare that someone actually answers so succinct and definatively, cheers!

So with regard to #4, your suggesting that z32 turbo axles can be used to resolve this issue?

and #5, although alittle tedious, it can be done & there is an advantage however small it maybe? I mean Nissan evolved this system for a reason & every GTR is quicker than the last, so why not take advantage of this? As going pro would give 4wheel semi-independant torque splitting & ABS, rather than just front/rear. That has to be of some advantage? If so, just changing the ABS rings, the G-sensor & Attesa control module be all thats required? Or do i need to change pumps aswell?

#4: Yes I stumbled onto a complete z32 rear at an importers and realised they were the same width of the rs4 auto. The z32tt had a viscus lsd and axles were same size (thickness as GTR) & 6 bolt. They look like a rs4 rear with r32 control arms & hubs etc. Go to an importers and measure for yourself Don't just take my word. Again don't get active lsd axles either.

#5 everything will need changing. Not imposible but I just don't see the point? its your car mate so go for it if it works out let us know. IMO the time & money would be better spent in other areas and would provide more bang for your buck etc.

Cool cheers mate, given me some solid ideas of what to do with the rear of mine now! As for upgrading other areas, well im running out of 'other' areas to upgrade and i think it would be pretty cool so eventually i probably will do this mod (i let you know how it goes, possibly with lap time comparo if i can be arsed)! The RB30 is almost ready to go in, so driveline is next on the agenda!

Cool cheers mate, given me some solid ideas of what to do with the rear of mine now! As for upgrading other areas, well im running out of 'other' areas to upgrade and i think it would be pretty cool so eventually i probably will do this mod (i let you know how it goes, possibly with lap time comparo if i can be arsed)! The RB30 is almost ready to go in, so driveline is next on the agenda!

LOL I have done everything. But now it's too painfull to drive on street so I may go in a different direction.

Yes you are!

Just got my car on the road again pleased with the power from the RB30 but forgotten how the suspension is geared towards speed rather than comfort. Have been getting used to the Auto Camry that I bought to go to work in while my car was being built!

Its OK though I will do some racing - club stuff etc and go to the drags just to establish some times and keep the Camry to hack around town in. Then in a few years if I don't smash up my Stagea I will reconfigure it to make it more streetable while still reasonably rapid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...