Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I was wondering what ecu would be better for my setup mods are

Td06h-20g 8cm housing

550 injectors

3 inch exhaust

35 mm turbosmart external wastegate 17 psi

Stainless high mount

32 gtr cooler

I know nistune will be cheaper but lets put price aside on this one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377286-haltech-e6k-or-nistune-for-a-rb20/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I would go with nistune, for your set up it would be easier and cheaper, and if you compare the difference in price(you cant put aside the price factor) V extra's you will get with the e6k then there isnt enough there to warrant going the haltech.

I dont know if it has changed now but many yrs ago haltech were one of the best you could get but there were very few people who knew how to tune them.

Hands down i would go with nistune before haltech, i would even go with power fc before haltech for your car.

Edited by W0rp3D

Depends what you want to do to the car.

If you simply want an programmable ecu to make use of your mods then go the Nistune.

If you want to log a crap load of things, have launch control, anti lag, boost control, sequential injection(not sure if E6K supports this) and as many cool haltech accessories as you can get then go the Haltech.

I know lots about haltech and how many I've pulled out of various vehicles over the past eight years.

I'm sure their new platinum series are just dandy! Cant comment on them though cause I have no conifdence in there ECU's since they went windows based.

Hey thanks for the replys I was just asking beacause I got offered a Haltech for a rb20 off a mate it's brand new was for a conversion but never used so for around 500 that's y I said price isn't a issue it has the igniters and it's a plug and play does that change any minds or should I say na and just go with the nistune

Hey thanks for the replys I was just asking beacause I got offered a Haltech for a rb20 off a mate it's brand new was for a conversion but never used so for around 500 that's y I said price isn't a issue it has the igniters and it's a plug and play does that change any minds or should I say na and just go with the nistune

If you have local tuner that is good with haltechs and everything is truly plug n play IE: no chopping up the loom, then yes, it changes everything, go the haltech.

In that case go the haltech

You guys dont have a clue.

You realise in going to the haltech you will be batch firing injectors and coils! The std ECU is fully sequential on both. It will do everything about 100times better than the haltech ever will.

There is a reason haltech doesn't support the earlier ECU's anymore is beacuse they are shit.

You guys dont have a clue.

You realise in going to the haltech you will be batch firing injectors and coils! The std ECU is fully sequential on both. It will do everything about 100times better than the haltech ever will.

There is a reason haltech doesn't support the earlier ECU's anymore is beacuse they are shit.

Umm I think your the one without the clue. The stock ECU is not fully sequential. It has 2 injector drivers.

RB20DET have 6 injectors drives and 6 ignition outputs.

From the Nistune forums where people actually have a clue about the stock ecu, they have disassembled the firmware and run these ecu's on a test bench

In ECU pinouts, injectors 4&6 are swapped. However, there is no need to fix that. If you look inside R32 rb20det ECU, you'll see that it only has two injector drivers! One for injectors 1,3,5, other for injectors 2,4,6. So injectors 4 and 6 are the same signal, the pins are connected directly to each other anyway..

If I have problems with the wastegate I'll upgrade but for now it will do. I'm going to run the Haltech leaves me more options in the future also every one I know that has one has never had any problems and my tuner should have no problems tuning it. That's everyone

Personally I don't think there is a huge performance or fuel economy in going to fully sequential from batch mode but if you can I would. Personally I'd stick with the nistune as it looks legal, easy to tune, cheap and plug and play. That and there are more nistune tuners than haltech tuners, I've heard the software is a bit average to use as well though this was earlier models from years ago.

Umm I think your the one without the clue. The stock ECU is not fully sequential. It has 2 injector drivers.

Interesting, I had read that it was fully sequential before 4k and then went batch mode but no one ever confirmed either way. I have been told the neo ECUs are fully sequential, do you know if this is the case?

If you could link me to the nistune thread I would be very interested to read about it.

Thanks.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...