Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^^ I have always been running a Power FC and had highflowed my stock turbo when it blew at Barbs........so its got a Gt3076r core in it now with a slightly bigger than standard housing.........(avoided a high mount because its daily driven)

The old tune was done on a hot day (not that it matters that much)....but its leaning out pretty badly in places....and the AFRs are all over the place really.

Had a lovely tuning session this evening...nice and cool......and yeah she performed very well.

First up a big thank you to Tom and Richie @ PZP (you guys are awesome)

Few pics..............

20120606_170238.jpg

New LED dash bulbs look nice.................

20120606_170337.jpg

Plenty of fresh air :)

20120606_174320-1.jpg

PLENTY of flames :devil: .....and a couple of hours later.......................

20120606_174715.jpg

Two boost settings....................

12 psi spiking to 13 psi for everyday driving........319 @ the wheels.....

18 psi for the high boost setting.....352.9 @ the wheels.....

Tom was reluctant to turn up the boost (even though the car was responding well to more boost) because of the damage it might cause to the standard head gasket, valves, springs etc...which I thought was a fair call and which I am more than happy with....(because I am no dyno queen)

260kw for the street is just about right for the street in my opinion and the car runs like a dream....very smooth....and torque curve has improved quite a bit.....so yeah.....happy days :P

LOL thought that driveway was snow at first glance.

And for wheels - SSR SP1 / 3pc Meisters with black centres ftw.

Will fill guards nicely espesh with your little side skirt thingy :rolleyes:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/401685-qld-work-meister-s1-3-piece-18x-85-27-18x95-26/

Edited by 10 4

nahh not black centres!

http://www.advancespeedshop.com/images/ssrprofessorsp1.jpg

"super black coat" on that link. would b hawt imo

and lol yeah i thought it was snow too

and also - U changed the lights we did for you!

@ Simon - Thanks for the troubleshoot (damn video was refusing to upload - but got there in the end)......

@ Jonno.....yeah I did...but will be putting back the green LEDs soon.....they looked better (naaawww)

Here we go.....a video I completed last night....a quick summary of this thread basically

Michael scan that book and PM "on edge" a little teaser every day..hahha.....but on a serious note....thanks for sharing...interesting to know.

And in other news.....................

Damn thunderstorms and rain have put all painting on the back burner......

so not expecting any "developments on that front" (see what I did there) :P

The car is really nice to drive now with the new tune................tested the high boost setting the other day and "its awesome" would be a polite way of describing it.

For all those people who think their tune is "slightly off the mark"....it probably is....the weather plays a big role it seems....and I can vouch for that...tune in summer and tune in winter.....A LOT DIFFERENT.

Anyway I am happy..she comes on strong....runs beautifully even on cold starts etc...and sounds awesome on full song.

Have really been spending a lot of time researching rims.....I want work meisters but cant justify buying them at this stage..so more saving involved or I will have to find an alternative. Going to go to Vision R for some trial fitting soon...will post updates.

Oh bought and strategically located an airfreshner thingo this morning.....dont want the car to start smelling with all this damp and cold weather we are having :nyaanyaa:

Stay tuned..................

OK I NEED ADVICE from all the wheel gurus.......

Plan to go with ^^^^

18 x 8.5 fronts +29

18 x 9.5 rears +24

My big concern is the backs will stick out too much?? Thoughts?? The other option is +37 so no inbetween for the rears.

I havent clicked on this thread for a long time and my god I am glad I did!

The car looks amazing and is exactly the image I am aiming for with my 33.

But instead I am going matte black :rolleyes:

So it will be getting the re-trim and all that jaz.

Also around the same numbers we are both pulling.

Have you got a dyno graph we can see because that would be great

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...