Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys & Girls,

I am looking at buying a cheap r32 gtst to start racing in. The car will still have to be registered as towing it may not be an option at this stage. I would like to start door to door racing and have been reading and searching through the forums looking at the MRA and a few other catagories. What is the best option for me as i am having trouble trying to digest all of the rules and regs for the different catagories. Keeping in mind i would eventually like to start racing more competitively and would like to stick to the r32.

If anyone can point me in the right direction or if there is someone i can ring and speak to about this that would be great. Also where is a good place to look for a cheap r32, i have been keeping a close eye on the classifieds section, my105, etc.

Any help/ suggestions & opinions would be great.

Regards,

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377560-door-to-door-racing/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Daniel,

my105 is a great place to start looking for a track ready car.

only thing is I think you'll find it hard to look for a road registered and log booked track car. Especuially a skyline unless it has race/rally rego already but unsure if that rego can be transfered with purchase (i.e. most states historic rego cannot be transfered so maybe similar)

Id suggest setting a budget.

then double it and go from there!

lol

MRA is actually a cheapish series for racing and a good entry level.

this was my first year.

70 bucks or so for a medical, 100 for AASA national licence and away you go. (you will need to provide evidence of supersprints/prev motorsport or do an OLT)

with MRA - the car will need to be AASA log booked.

If you do iRace it will need to be iRace log booked.

at this stage being entry I'd forget about CAMS events door to door as your car may not be eliglble.

(unless it is already CAMS log booked then niiiiice!)

then comes your general maintenance and entry fees, accomodation and transport and food.

for example, my gay MX5 is cheap on tyres and brakes and fuel and parts.

1 set of pads will last over a season same with semi slicks.

accomodation is 50-100 a night prior to MRA in Goulburn.

fuel to and from with tow car and fuel for racing.

aaan thats all I can think off with a daqy on the piss and hope it makes sence!will reread and post againb tomorrow LOL

Cheers,

Chris

Good to hear....MRA and iRace is the place for sure, nice and cheap to get going.

As for where that would take you "seriously", either MRA or iRace will allow you to spend enough to get close to the front of the field, eg rb30/26 at 10" slicks on a 32 gtst. If you want to run CAMS forget a skyline unless you like paying a lot to go slow :(

Thanks guys,

Where is the best place to get the rule book for the MRA series? so that i can start looking around. I beleive the next round of MRA is on the 30th october, will try and get there and have a chat to a few of you guys.

Daniel.

Have done a track day and some driver training I'm my old 306(slightly different). My thought was to do a couple of track days first, im just trying to get my head around all of the different options and what rules are associated with them.

LOL

Im sober now! :teehee:

Yep - next round is 30th October. Its acvtually a 2 day event for Alfa's and swifts and another class, then sunday is the super TT (any car ranging from Ford Escorts to EVO's to HSV's to BMW's etc etc

jump on the MRA website and have a read over some of the stuff :)

cheers,

Chris

The only reason for going a skyline is because i like them. What would be a car that is cheap to start with that i can modify over time and race more seriously moving into cams events, etc (is there such a thing)?

Also the irace looks interesting, rather annoying oran park is no longer around though.

Cheers,

race more seriously moving into cams events,

Also the irace looks interesting, rather annoying oran park is no longer around though.

Cheers,

Not a Skyline

Have a look at the Catagory 2 (2B & 2F) cars in the cams list and find something you like out of that.

Not a Skyline

Have a look at the Catagory 2 (2B & 2F) cars in the cams list and find something you like out of that.

Yeah skylines aren't on the Category 2 list yet (looks sideways at Brad....)

Silvias are becoming popular in CAMS Improved Production racing, and can be as good bang for buck option as any race car will ever be.

Agree Silvias are cheap, but so is a 32 gtst (couple of thousand to buy and cage). If you want to race skylines because you like them (as good a reason as any in my book) and you aren't going to bash your head against the CAMS rules, I think a 32 gtst is a good choice.

Decent suspension layout inc double wishbone front

Lots of aftermarket support

Engines range from $500 wrecker rb20s up to rb26/30 for $$$

Relitively light

Can run very large wheels/tyres, up to 18x10 with GTR front guards.

Thanks guys will keep looking, keep the advice coming it all helps.

SAU should put on an info night for entry level motorsport.

now if only someone would post that in this thread! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376825-wanna-learn-car-stuff/

Yeah skylines aren't on the Category 2 list yet (looks sideways at Brad....)

Agree Silvias are cheap, but so is a 32 gtst (couple of thousand to buy and cage). If you want to race skylines because you like them (as good a reason as any in my book) and you aren't going to bash your head against the CAMS rules, I think a 32 gtst is a good choice.

Decent suspension layout inc double wishbone front

Lots of aftermarket support

Engines range from $500 wrecker rb20s up to rb26/30 for $$$

Relitively light

Can run very large wheels/tyres, up to 18x10 with GTR front guards.

Where do you find one that cheap? i must not know where to look.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...